Forum Replies Created
I also removed the CE10 today, cleaned the board and resoldered the CE15.
Booted right up, Display showed FW Version etc. Did not have the time for further testing or hooking it up to my n64/snes.
I just went the partial refund & order myself from mouser route.
Let’s hope the PCB survives the unsolder & resolder process. Mine did already lose some of the solder resistant coating due to excessive resoldering and cleaning.
If this thing breaks I am giving up…April 17, 2017 at 9:26 PM in reply to: Anyone want to dump their programmed L336 remote flash chip? (raspberry pi) #12442
Once I got my OSSC running I can help you with that. I got an old raspberry pi model B. Finding proper clips or soldering wires should not be a problem.
So, I was so curious about whats going on here that I dug out the OSSC again.
First i checked nStatus, nConfig, nCE and CONF_DONE, they were all 0V when powered up.
I read about someone not properly soldering the exposed pad which led to proplems with nConfig always being low.
The exposed pad is not for heat dissipation btw:
I resoldered the exposed pad and all (!) pins using my newly arrived Rosin Flux
Then after switching on – the Display lit up and both LEDs are also lit up. But there is no text on the Display and it does not seem to respond to the remote control.
CONF_DONE is still low, nConfig is at 3,3V and nStatus is at 1,685V (high?!?)
This document says that it is stuck during loading configuration:
When connecting JTAG, Quartus detects a different chip than expected (JTAG ID code 0x020F20DD expected, found JTAG ID code 0x020F10DD).
The label on the chip I got in the advanced DIY kit says EP4CE10E22C8N, the BOM says EP4CE15E22C8N…
According to table 1-1 on page 3 of this document
The CE10 is almost short of everything compared to the CE10.
Was this FPGA sent out accidentally or is it possibly to run the OSSC fw properly on this one?
VCCINT measures 1.201 Volts.
I will try JTAG connection again and post the error messages.
At the moment I think the FPGA is bad.
What else can I check on the board before I unsolder it?
The FPGA had many bent legs when it arrived, but I straightened them using the microscope. Maybe something went wrong mechanically inside the FPGA, or it overheated during soldering but I don’t think so.
Thanks for your help!
I don’t remember the exact message from the USB blaster, but it was always identical, did not change when the board was powered or unpowered.
Also, the light at the USB blaster was lit up when I connected everything. After the error message, the light went out until I replugged the blaster at the USB side.
In the OSSC, there was nothing lighting up at any time, except the LCD backlight when I touched the transistor on the bottom side, the backlight was faintly lighting up. I guess the FPGA tri-states its outputs.
Thanks for your replies and suggestions.
At the moment I don’t have time to further check my ossc.
What I have already done now:
– re-check all soldering connections
– measured all voltages at the FPGA (did not have my fine Probe tips at hand, so i checked the voltages at the capacitors)
– measured frequency at the oscillator with the multimeter (oscilloscope and fine Probe tips are in the cellar)
– measured all resistors around the Ossi for correct values
– bought a terasic USB blaster, always got an error saying something about JTAG chain, but I never programmed a FPGA before, so maybe I am to stupid to use it
What is the correct behavior of the conf_done pins? Is there anything I can check with a scope?April 11, 2017 at 1:26 PM in reply to: Does this mouser project contain all components I need? #12336
I ordered the DIY Kit and the DIY advanced Kit, when assembling, I noticed I still had to buy eight M3 bolts and four M3 nuts.