Reply To: Pinout for OSSC AV3 Dsub 15 / VGA input?

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#20301
CZroe
Participant

I’ve been looking for the pinout OSSC uses for the Dsub 15. I mean, I get that it uses the same pinout as VGA for VGA sources, but what about RGB? YPbPr? Audio?

VGA is RGB; RGBHV, specifically. For RGBS, same as RGBHV, but composite sync goes on the horizontal sync line. RGsB is the same as well, but with no dedicated sync line. For YPbPr, sames as RGsB, matched to cable color: Y to G, Pb to B, Pr to R

Yes, of course, but in context I was talking about non-VGA RGB (no discrete H/V sync; 31khz and below) so as to avoid listing all the different types. So, OSSC will tolerate/accept TTL sync, composite sync, and sync on composite video all through the same pin (VGA horizontal sync)? Good to know. Thanks!

You do need to keep in mind that AV3 has limited low pass filter capabilities, and that the wiki recommends connecting older consoles (which I believe means all of the consoles you mentioned) to the other inputs.

Yes, I’m aware. All the consoles I listed were for the AV2 input with two HD Retrovision cables and a suite of adapters, though I may want to move GameCube to AV3 specifically to avoid the LPF (PlayStation 2/3 as well). I’m unsure which video mod I’m ultimately going to implement after selling my original component cables months ago but I don’t think an LPF would be ideal regardless. Heck, I might do HDMI-only there. AV3 would be primarily for things like DVD/BD players or for testing to see if an LPF is desirable for a particular device.

I have an OSSC1.5 with the audio upgrade board so I know mine isn’t wired for audio through the 15 pin Dsub, but are the newer ones?

No; VGA cables do not carry audio. The OSSC 1.6 has a 3.5mm TRS jack for audio input for AV3, located next to the DE-15 port.
I don’t have one, but I believe the OSSC 1.5 with the expansion audio board can only accept one audio input at a time, either via SCART on AV1 or via the 3.5mm jack next to the DVI port; meaning all of your video inputs will have to share this one audio input.

Thanks. I realize now that what I read about a VGA port being used to carry other signals and being designed around the pinout for a set of cheap Monoprice cables was in relation to the Analogue Nt and Nt Mini. I was wrongheadedly asking for the Nt Mini’s Dsub 15 pinout all along. I sold the Nt Mini when prices got crazy earlier this year so, no, I won’t be looking to connect audio to the expansion board through unused VGA pins just for the Nt Mini. 😉

Luckily, the HD Retrovision cables were engineered to be used together with a few Y-cables, so they can share AV2 and connect NES RGB modded AV Famicom, SNES, N64, GameCube (with mods), Master System, Genesis 1/Sega CD, Genesis 2/32X, Saturn, Neo Geo, and TurboGrafx-16 (with Super SD System 3), and more. I can kill a lot of birds with two stones.

You can also kill either the OSSC or your consoles if you turn two of them on at the same time (accidentally or otherwise) when they’re connected with simple Y-cables, as this may cause voltage to spike on the video and/or audio lines and exceed specification. (Just because HD Retrovision says you can do it doesn’t mean you should.)

I know you don’t want to use a switch, but, if you need to have two cables share AV2, I would not recommend anything less; use an automatic switch if you want it to be hands-off.

With that setup it wouldn’t even be possible to power most while connected simultaneously since all non-Nintendo consoles would have to go through the Genesis cables with the appropriate adapter and the cables can’t physically connect to more than one simultaneously. The feature is specifically billed as an alternative to switchboxes and multiple cables (http://www.hdretrovision.com/vote3rdparty/) so I would hope they have engineered some way to prevent damage. If not, well, you warned me and I have only myself to blame. “Hands off” was never really a goal of mine but getting maximum utility out of two quality cables versus buying 10+ well built shielded cables and a gSCART switch was. 🙂 I have multiple component switch boxes (two are even marketed for game consoles) but the extra complexity only makes sense for more long-term setups than I intend to have (most will get disconnected as soon as I’m done playing).

Thanks for your help!