dead_screem
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For scaler mode it would be possible to add an option where smallest / highest generic sampling rate preset is always used, leading to selected scaling algo having a bigger impact in horizontal up/downscaling.
I don’t understand what you mean.
It just makes no sense to do it this way. If I adjust everything for 1080p I then have to redo it all for 720p or 1440p or any other resolution. And moreso, I know what my timing values are for 704×240/704x480i. You can’t even do math to go from 480p timing values to 720p or 1080p, and even if you could, it needlessly overcomplicates it to use. And it’s already overcomplicated enough as it is having to manually adjust timings, instead of a simple auto detected/adjusted based on the input signals actual porches.
This is really making me want to throw it in the closet and reuse my OSSC, as overcomplicated as that thing is.
Yeah, as I said in my first post, after adjusting h.backporch and h.samplerate and saving, I can get a normal edge to edge picture as shown in the second pic.
But my point is that I shouldn’t have to do that. Can I get a replacement possibly?When I first tried it with original firmware (before upgrade to 0.85) I used insurrection industries MD1 SCART cable with my JP MD1, after upgrading is when the h. blank backporch became visable. After the upgrade I pulled out an old retro console accessories md2 jp21 cable (which contains a sync buffer ic unlike the insurrection cable, and tried that with my jp MD2 and my US G2. h. blank backporch still visable with default settings.
Here are the direct links to the bigger versions. I forgot to fix the thumbnails to link to the bigger versions.
ibb.co/V2Lqj6m
ibb.co/c1B6X4S
ibb.co/hmwmb42Here is comparison photo. The red line shows the h. blank back porch is visable with default settings. It was not like that with factory firmware. It was like in the 2nd photo. But reverting to old firmware isn’t fixing it.
ibb.co/ckZjPF8edit: btw I had to remove the h t t p from the links or else the board threw a error message about spam.
I just edited that post fixing the img urls, and the topic went into moderation again. Is it the HTML img tags? If it is, thats weird as it’s what the editor inserts when you hit the IMG button. Other editor buttons also insert HTML.
I cant post topics for some reason despite being able to before the upgrade. A topic I just posted earlier is in a moderation queue and has yet to be approved.
Llink to not yet approved topic, https://videogameperfection.com/?post_type=topic&p=34875
actually it looks like the resistor is there on the sync line in the gray shrink tube before the cap.
And yeah I see only resistors on the RGB lines, and like you said, according to this page it needs resistors and caps. And maybe for pal mega drives only? As my cable from retro_console_accessories on ebay which I use on my NTSC Genesis has only caps on the RGB lines, no resistors. dont have an ossc so who knows if it works with it or not.
IIRC the OSSC has a built in sync filter and reccommends that you don’t use any external sync cleaner/boosters (in the cable for instance) as they can cause issues with the OSSC.
If the retro gaming cables cable is like the cable I got from retro_console_accessories on ebay it might have the in built sync cleaner/booster. Opening the cable and seeing what’s inside won’t hurt anything you know…
And AV3 RGBHV requires TTL level sync, AV1 RGB SCART does not it requires 1Vp-p 75Ohm terminated, so if it works in AV3 then the cable might be boosting the MD’s Csync output to TTL level which is why it cant lock to it on AV1.
Open up the scart plug, see if there is an in-built sync booster/cleaner. That may be the problem.
With the XRGB3 I definitely had screen blanking issues on the MD when the screen went bright, until I switched to a CSYNC cable.
my cable is from retro_console_accessories on ebay. IIRC it had an in-built sync cleaner/booster. I think that’s the problem…
Also, thanks for the answers! looks like I’m going to need to save money now. 😛
I’m not sure what you’re getting at, maybe I can test a specific game for you?
Not just color borders on the top and bottom, but on the left and right sides as well.
Some people seriously hate them, and use custom settings on the framemeister to get rid of them.
But my old CRT TV had almost 0 overscan and always had side borders. So I like them. I just want to make sure OSSC has them by default. Here is a youtube video that shows the side borders.I’ve not tested that bright flash specifically but you can cure that problem on the XRGB3 by using a clean sync (CSYNC) cable. The OSSC is not affected by that issue at all.
Hmm… supposedly my cable uses CSYNC… oh well.
MD games have boarders on my TV. 240p grid pattern test shows it’s displaying correctly.
MD 480i games are compatible if you adjust the pre/post coast values as per the Wiki instructions
Output is 720×480″just to clarify, it has side borders?
also can you (or someone else) test entering a special stage in sonic 2? the bright flash of white causes the XRGB-3 to lose sync to the console. I would like to know if it happens with the ossc or not.-The output is totally dependent on the console. If one scanline is slightly longer/shorter as is with SNES, that is reflected on the output and not all displays like that.
Any idea why the snes doesn’t have a problem with the XRGB-2 plus or XRGB-3 (b1 mode) analog line doublers?
Also, regarding 720p tv incompatibility… what is the problem? is it outputting pillar boxed 1280×720 or is it trying to send 960×720???
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