[gatr]

marqs! Glad to report back that everything* works now after reflowing those pins!! Holy smokes, thanks a bunch for the help!! And thanks a bunch for this great project of yours!

*Someone mentioned on the shmups forum that they are getting shimmering pixels on the latest firmware, and I was getting that, until I downgraded, images for comparison: https://imgur.com/a/f2FHCnX the artifacts sometime flicker as well, but I didn’t get a vid of it, but for now I can run it on the old one until ya get this sorted out, thanks again!

[gatr]

Hey marqs, I went ahead and just did some continuity testing with my meter, putting one lead on the DVI pin and one on the surface of the HDMI connector, and got these results, with this as a legend: https://imgur.com/a/yGM9BOK

• DVI: 24/TMDS Clock-
• HDMI: 12

• DVI: 23/TMDS Clock+
• HDMI: 10

• DVI: 22/TMDS Clock Shield
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 19/TMDS Data 0/5 Shield
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 18/TMDS Data 0+
• HDMI: 7

• DVI: 17/TMDS Data 0-
• HDMI: 9

• DVI: 11/TMDS Data 1/3 Shield
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 10/TMDS Data 1+
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 9/TMDS Data 1-
• HDMI: 6

• DVI: 3/TMDS Data 2/4 Shield
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 2/TMDS Data 2+
• HDMI: 1,2,5,8,11,17

• DVI: 1/TMDS Data 2-
• HDMI: 3,4

And when trying out the DVI by itself once it’s plugged into the port, DVI: 15/Ground gets continuity with its own pins at DVI: 2,3,11,19,22. And also, by itself without a wire, the HDMI port, when I leave a lead on 1, also pulls 2,5,8,11,17 as connected. And from the picture, the points look clean, so any idea of where I should check after this?

*EDIT!*: Upon further investigation, I took a picture of what looks to be pins 1 and 2 of the HDMI port bridged (possibly also 3 and 4?) see here: https://imgur.com/a/iORs73V Do you think I can go at this with some flux and an iron?

[gatr]

Sorry to necro this, but I finally decided to poke back around at this thing, after a few different trials even on a different revision A board.

But anyway, I saw that there was a new firmware, so I decided to try it out. Flashed it through USB Blaster and reset it, tried it on my TV, and still got the same response, black image, and some weird audio static.

I just tried it on my PC monitor (LG 27GL83a – 1440p/144hz) and I still got nothing. But then I tried switching resolutions due to the firmware, and on one-click UP (1200p, I believe?) I started getting some static imagery flicker in, but with no audio coming through on this one.

2 Images Here: https://imgur.com/a/lRdod2R

Now it would flicker real fast on 1440p setting, but 1200p it seems to stick around a little longer enough for me to take a picture of with an image showing up maybe once every 30–60s, inconsistently.

I’m just trying to figure out what this might be? Could it just merely be lack of support on the monitor for the refresh rate? I have a couple CRT’s I might be able to test out on once I get an adapter. Or perhaps inexperience with coax wires? (I previously tried with RG174 months ago, and now have a RG316 on it) Or maybe anything else you can think of?

Thanks again in advance!

[gatr]

Hey marqs,

I tried changing C1 to both pin 4 and 5 of the 8S F32. Pin 4 resulted in black screen/no audio and pin 5 I got the same audio noise. For the oscillator on the bottom (Pic here: https://imgur.com/GruVUA6) I tried connecting the GND to the top right (Pin 1?) and then the C1 connection to the JP4 pin on the right point, closest to the oscillator. I still got the same black/noise result.

Do you have any other ideas?

*EDIT* I just re-read the instructions again and maybe I need to flash via JTAG if these from VGP aren’t pre-flashed?

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