[prrdrn]

Thank you for letting me know marqs! That’s an ongoing issue indeed. I’ll report back if and when I find the courage to butcher you’re beautiful piece of work.

[prrdrn]

Hey,

I’m not sure our problems are related, but when I get no audio on a TV (it’s playing fine ootb on my LG TV, but not my Sony for some reasons) I toggle some options in “Audio” (24bit/48kHz to 24bit/96kHz and back) and it fixes itself. Worth a try.

[prrdrn]

Sorry I wasn’t being clear (this and my broken English). Do I have to go through the whole remote pairing again? Pressing KEY1 does not cancel the setup. I might have to RTFM on that one 🙂

[prrdrn]

Yes, I think I did just as you told me to (?). It deactivated the remote, but jitter stayed the same on screen.

When I press 1 it then prompt “press 2, press xxx (…), press menu” etc.

[prrdrn]

Didn’t seem to have any effect.

P.S.: After testing I pressed KEY0 has you said and was sent back to the Test Pattern but the remote still didn’t work. I did a hard-reboot and now I can’t seem to be able to stops I2C traffic again, instead I’m prompted with “Press 1” when activating Bind IR Remote as if I had to bind a new remote even though this one works fine (?)

[prrdrn]

More on topic: I’ve just checked the scaler mode with the original firmware (regular GPIO), and jitter is back… So I don’t know what to say. I’d have to do more tests for sure.

[prrdrn]

Hi marqs,

Thanks for tuning in, but I don’t want to be a nuisance if it’s something no-one else is experiencing…

To answer your questions:
– No I don’t get any shocks if I touch the SCART connector unplugged from the DExx board (an RGC Sync On Luma PS2 cable and an Sega RGB for Saturn)
– Those are PAL PS2 (soft modded) and PAL Saturn (Fenrir) with their original internal PSUs (no DC to DC shenanigans)

[prrdrn]

Nope it’s a direct connection to the TV. I narrowed it down to having to have both the HDMI *and* the Scart plugged in. Only the TV and the console need to be plugged into the wall (both on the same basic powerstrip, both without ground plugs) for this to happen.

[prrdrn]

Also some weird thing is definitely going on with my setup. I don’t know about you L-Train, but I can barely come close to my DE10 when in DExx mode because I’m receiving small shocks of electricity whenever an HDMI cable is connected – even if the DE-10 itself is *not* plugged into the wall (the TV is). Should I worry more about this “leak”? ^^’

I mean, I’m used to feeling a tingling when using an old MacBook Pro unibody not grounded, but here it’s quite a bit more. Painful I’d say.

[prrdrn]

Hey it’s me again.

To the surprise of absolutely nobody, my HDMI cables where all sh… noise prone, or something. I tried a (presumably of better quality) Xbox One cable – one with the little ferrite cores – and the jitter is gone in scaler mode. I’ve seen the issue once after that, while in 480p SoG mode, but a quick cycle between sampling presets and it fixed itself. Next I’ll put back the default GPIO firmware, but I have no reasons to think it’ll be any different.

I have no idea yet regarding the sound behavior stated earlier though.

Cheers!

[prrdrn]

OK, so I see the same issue with the alternative firmware – if a bit less “jumpy”. I can’t test the sound as my cable is not long enough.

See video: https://youtu.be/E4M3QV7NmbQ

[prrdrn]

L-Train: You’re right, I have tried with my PAL Saturn in 288p and it’s the same. A bit less jumpy in 720p as well, but not great. If I remember correctly (I’m away from home and my C1) I could not have a display on any resolutions higher that 1080 either.

Buckoa51: Thanks I’ll try and report back!

Unrelated I’m sure but on this Sony TV, I don’t have sound unless I toggle 16/48 to 96 and back in the options. Anyone having that issue?

[Author]

Posts