[blackice85]

Ah that makes sense then. Like I said, had I known better I’d have said something to you when placing the order, but the TTL vs 75ohm thing never came up for me before, so I didn’t think I needed anything special. Glad it was a simple mistake on my part.

[blackice85]

Yep, unless there’s a hidden resistor elsewhere in the cable, there’s nothing on the sync line. So I guess I just had an older cable, and didn’t know enough to specify to Voultar.

Good luck with your soldering though, it’s definitely precision work. I’m glad I had a professional do it in my case, that kind of detail is well outside my skill level. You should be pleased with the end result however, that RGB board is great.

[blackice85]

Looks like that did it, sync is rock solid now. Not always the exact frequency each time I turn it on, but it doesn’t move anymore. It’s a bit lower than when it syncing intermittently before too, and about where it was pre-mod if memory serves. I guess before sometimes it just happened to be at the right levels to sync and sometimes not. Also all output modes are working again, not just x3 and x4.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[blackice85]

Got it, thanks. I think making the modification to Voultar’s board is probably the safest and easiest for me (ie least likely to screw it up).

[blackice85]

Honestly it wasn’t even until recently that I started hearing about TTL sync, so I’m not even sure what my cable is. I did buy it a like the year before.

So if my cable doesn’t have that resistor, and my mod has the two TTL points soldered together, should I change anything? I’m getting confused on what should or shouldn’t be present.

[blackice85]

Yeah I did take a picture earlier, forgot to post it.

Cable

[blackice85]

Alright so just cut it, and if no change solder it back in? I can try that later tonight or tomorrow.

[blackice85]

I wonder if there’s a clean way to snip it out without ruining anything? Would I have to connect anything in it’s place, or just cut that connection? If it’s just a simple cut that’d be easy to test too.

[blackice85]

Yeah it’s the SNES Jr/Mini, and I used something like this to mod it myself years back, though I don’t think I used resistors. Never gave me trouble, not on the Framemeister nor the OSSC later on.

This is what’s installed now

Completed RGB Board

Schematic

Kinda feel like I should have just left things alone now, except that my own mod wasn’t well done and needed professional repair work, some solder points were loose. Sync-wise it was fine though. In the meantime I’m getting in an older model SNES, just in case there’s no good solution to this.

[blackice85]

I’m including a video link of what it does when it decides to act up, in case that’s helpful.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzqLju9MJloEczRYNTN5Qm10QUE

[blackice85]

Yep looks like I got a resistor in my cable, so I’ll open up the console next and see what it’s set to.

Edit: Looks like the TTL jumper is shorted, so that’s right as far as I understand it.

[blackice85]

Ah, so it could be as simple as just switching the jumper then? Seems like an easy thing to test for, I’ll do that later then.

[blackice85]

Yeah it’s a CSYNC cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk

As for the mod, I don’t know offhand. It looks like it can be set to either by setting a jumper, so I’ll have to open it up later to see.

Presently, it’ll sync up 99% of the time if I turn it on, and then reset the SNES after a few seconds. Seems like it settles on a stable frequency somehow. Not sure why resetting it works, but that seems to fix it, just powering it on is hit or miss.

[blackice85]

I think I found what it was, it was line doubling that it doesn’t like now. It’ll still sync up most of the time with linex3 and x4, but not linex2. I knew the higher linex modes aren’t compatible with all displays, but I didn’t think to check that the lowest was no longer compatible.

Maybe the new refresh rate combined with the odd resolution pushed it out of the acceptable range?

[blackice85]

Original mod was a simple 3-wire style DIY that used it’s own amp, the new one is the THS7374 amp installed by Voultar.

http://voultar.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_62

Seems like it syncs to the display less often when the AV receiver is in the mix, but previously it didn’t care.

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