March 20, 2018 at 9:51 PM #20253
Using the VGA cable or a RGB Scart?March 20, 2018 at 10:42 PM #20254
It’s all the same, really; there will be no perceivable difference between an RGB signal with composite or separate horizontal/vertical sync, because it’s all still RGB.
Where you may see a quality difference is in the cable you use. If you buy crappy cabling, you run the risk of visual noise and audio hum, which can be more noticeable with SCART, due to it carrying both audio and video in the same cable; however, these problems don’t really occur with good, shielded cabling, and shouldn’t occur at all with the pro coax cabling you can get from Retro-Access or the Packapunch cabling from RetroGamingCables.
Personally, I prefer to have my Toro box connected to my OSSC via SCART, because it gives me the convenience of one cable for both audio and video, as well as not having to reconfigure AV3 for the correct aspect ratio (Dreamcast requires 480p DTV for a 720×640 frame size, but AV3 defaults to a 640×480 frame size).
If you decide to go with SCART and you’re in the US, I recommend getting one of these KabelDirect SCART cables to start with; they’re very cheap (Currently $6.39 US for the 10ft and 15ft cables; 6ft is double that), very stiff, and decently shielded. I haven’t spent much time with them, but I did confirm I no longer get the nasty audio hum I was getting with the $6 basic SCART cable I ordered from BeharBros with my Toro.
As far as 480p compatibility, you can trick some games into using 480p by flipping the far-right switch on the Toro so the console starts in 480i mode, then flipping the switch back to 480p when you see the white Sega licensing/Windows CE boot screen. This works perfectly for me with Bust-A-Move 4. For games that simply aren’t compatible, you might be able to find a patch online, or you’ll have to deal with your TV’s deinterlacing, or the OSSC’s bob deinterlacing.March 21, 2018 at 4:54 AM #20263
thank youMarch 21, 2018 at 11:37 AM #20270
Using the SCART is better from the Toro, here’s why:-
1 – Dreamcast games running in 240p and 480i will benefit from the low-pass filter available on the AV1 input but not available on AV3. 480p games will not be affected either way.
2 – AV1 is set to automatically default to 480p rather than 640×480. 480p is the correct setting for Dreamcast (though you should also change the advanced timings as per the wiki for best results).
3 – Interlace running on AV3 works, but it’s kind of a hack and it can cause problems, no such problems on AV1.
4 – The timings for H&V sync seem a little strict on AV3 and some users have complained this causes image drop outs (this is a theory as I’ve not been able to replicate it personally).
Now if only the Toro didn’t have that annoying detachable cable that likes to keep coming loose 🙁March 21, 2018 at 12:44 PM #20277
Now if only the Toro didn’t have that annoying detachable cable that likes to keep coming loose ?
There’s a reason for that detachable dongle: it’s so you can replace it with a VGA dongle to use it as a scanline generator and/or a sync stripper for other RGBHV devices.March 21, 2018 at 7:54 PM #20281
If I want such a thing I’ll purchase it separately, the cable wiggles loose far too easily.March 21, 2018 at 8:43 PM #20289
I found it becomes loose easilyMarch 27, 2018 at 6:46 AM #20428Teddy RogersParticipant
One thing I do not like about the Toro (this goes for the Akura too) is the slight colour shift/difference with its output. It is particularly noticeable with black colours becoming (crushed) more grey.
I agree with using AV1. For me the reason I would choose this over AV3 is for the combined audio in the SCART connector. The other big reason for me is I often find with AV3 I have to keep adjusting H.BACKPORCH to get the image correctly centred. I have no idea why this keeps shifting slightly, it can be anything from 111 to 115. One of the downsides to using AV1 is that it does not support RGBHV, it kind of works until it looses sync and starts to flicker after a few minutes.
I also agree about the detachable Toro cable coming loose. This is exactly the same problem on the Akura. It is worst thing about the Beharbros products…
Ted.March 27, 2018 at 1:27 PM #20431
One of the downsides to using AV1 is that it does not support RGBHV
Is that really a problem? If there is a quality difference between RGBHV and RGBS, it’s imperceptible; and SCART doesn’t allow for separate sync anyway. The only thing I’m aware of that AV1 has over AV3 is a low-pass filter (everything else is a configuration change), which the OSSC wiki suggests RGBHV applications don’t need.March 28, 2018 at 5:28 AM #20457Teddy RogersParticipant
Is that really a problem?
No, I can use AV3 for RGBHV. As I mentioned there are some quirks (H.BACKPORCH shifting) with AV3 that I don’t experience with AV1. Whether that is due to the OSSC or something else I don’t know…
Ted.March 30, 2018 at 5:22 PM #20507
ill try that
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