Issues with Resident Evil 2 PAL N64

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    I just finished RE on Gamecube with the OSSC and it worked like a charm 😀
    I wanted to continue the serie with Resident Evil 2 (PAL) on my N64 (FRA model modded RGB)
    Unfortunately the resolution switches from 625i to 313p when you change screen or enter to menu.
    The time it resyncs, a zombie can grab you easily.

    Is there a way to fix it ?

    Thank you for your help.


    No sorry, not completely. OSSC is already the fastest it can be on a HDTV with 240p/480i switching. To minimise, make sure there are no switches, AV receivers or other processors in the chain between your OSSC and your TV.


    I removed my MadCatz RGB switch from my setup. Unfortunately, it didn’t make any difference.

    However, I have got a Gamecube with a SD Media Launcher.
    I put the GameCube Pal iso on the SD Card and the resolution doesn’t change on this game 😀
    I’ll play it this way, it is too expensive on GameCube.


    I am back with a solution. You’ll have to unplug your n64 expansion pak or use a cheat device like I did.
    All informations are posted here

    Gameshark code :

    So I did EVEN MORE digging, and it turns out that there is a GameShark code that disables the Expansion Pack!

    EE000000 0000


    I would argue that removing the expansion pak or using a cheat device is a workaround, not a solution. Since the OSSC isn’t a scaler that can do framerate conversion, and it’s not an HDMI 2.1-compliant device with VRR+QMS support, it (simplistically) has to disconnect from the display and reconnect at a slightly different framerate (assuming you’re linedoubling 240p and 480i to 480p), and it usually takes 1 to 5 seconds (depending on the devices in your chain) to recover from a blackout like that.

    Unfortunately, I think the only two methods of avoiding mode-switching blackouts with N64 games it to either 1) use a CRT or 2) use an UltraHDMI, both of which (still) have their pros and cons.


    You’re a bit finicky but you’re right 😀
    It is a workaround, but in my opinion really worth sharing.
    This issue stopped me from playing this game for almost three years.

    The UltraHDMI doesn’t like those resolution switches. According to the posts on assemblergames, there are plenty of artefacts when the resolution switches.

    So either
    1) Use a CRT
    2) Use your flatscreen internal upscaler
    3) Get an OSSC and a cheating device


    The UltraHDMI doesn’t like those resolution switches. According to the posts on assemblergames, there are plenty of artefacts when the resolution switches.

    If you’re quoting reports from assemblergames, I don’t think I agree with that wording. The UltraHDMI handles resolution switches just fine, and the only artifacting I can think of would be combing artifacts from the basic (but better than OSSC, in my opinion) deinterlacing of 480i/576i content. If the UltraHDMI had the option for good deinterlacing of 480i/576i, even at the expense of a frame of processing lag, I don’t think there would be any complaints.

    Option #2 is going to be very hard to come by, because most flatscreens lack S-Video, and those that still have composite and/or YPbPr lack 240p support. If you’re lucky enough to have a TV with YPbPr input that understands 240p, you could very easily get a Koryuu (when they come out) and use S-Video from the N64; the display should handle resolution switches just fine, and it should properly deinterlace 480i/576i; but it does require the display to handle all of that. It’s also getting harder and harder to find TVs that still have YPbPr inputs, let alone ones that will do 240p over YPbPr.

    Regarding Option #3, if you’re mainly playing games that do 240p<->480i transitions caused by having the expansion pak installed, I would recommend just switching back to the jump pak. If you no longer have one, they’re going to be dirt cheap, especially compared to a cheat device.

    I think we still need a device like the UltraHDMI that could continually output at a preset resolution and framerate, perform good deinterlacing when needed, and then scale and framerate-convert that to the preset resolution and framerate. Yes, it would add lag, but it would look damn good, and be the best solution next to using a CRT (which is becoming increasingly difficult, since good examples are getting more expensive, and repair shops don’t want to touch them). The Framemeister is close, but, for whatever reason, will not continually output at a preset resolution, and thus it suffers the same HDMI blackouts as the RT2X and OSSC.

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