October 28, 2018 at 4:34 PM #23461
I recently put together a neo geo mvs and it works great with the OSSC. I use the Jrok encoder which will output composite, s-video and component. It has some RGB out pins after going through some 220uf caps, pots for color adjustment and etc. The only thing you need to add is a 470ohm resistor on the CSYNC line as I measured the voltage at 4.21V which is not OSSC friendly.
I’m using the RGB out, which I wired to a 8 pin Din connector and its using a retrogamingcables uk cable (for neo geo cd – its the same pinout)
Anywho, Jrok also has a sync cleaner they offer – will it work with the OSSC? Anyone have any experience with it? I seem to recall that the OSSC doesn’t like sync cleaner/strippers being fed into it’s scart connection.
On some of the tv’s in my house there is sort of a vertical scrolling/bars noise that you can make out when there is alot of black on the screen and I was thinking it might be worth trying out the sync cleaner, or maybe it’s just some tv/ossc settings. Its just like multiple evenly spaced waves going up from the bottom of the screen to the top – on a 4k samsung it’s really noticable on an old 40 inch samsung led it’s there on x4 mode if you are really looking.
Thanks in advance,October 30, 2018 at 4:05 PM #23506
Are you using a supergun in between MVS and OSSC, or is the MVS directly modded? How are you powering the MVS (and supergun, if applicable)?
If you’re outputting CSYNC (to confirm, not sync on composite), then a sync cleaner would be pointless.October 30, 2018 at 4:13 PM #23508
Okay so no super gun. This is a MVS1FS board which has x2 controller ports built in.
Power is from a 5V 3 Amp PSU (it’s a PWR+ model which has been fitted to power the board via the 5v jamma connection)
I’m pretty sure it is CSYNC the voltage was the usual 4-5 volts and had to be lowered via the resistor. Also the cable from retrogaming cables is wired for a Neo geo CD CSync.October 30, 2018 at 4:21 PM #23509nmalinoskiParticipant
The only thing you need to add is a 470ohm resistor on the CSYNC line as I measured the voltage at 4.21V which is not OSSC friendly.
If you’re using AV1, then you are correct; TTL should not be used on AV1, because it’s not SCART-compliant; however, AV3 requires TTL sync.
So, you theoretically could simply wire your MVS’s output to a DE-15 connector and hook it into AV3 without a resistor, but I believe the MVS is old enough that it will probably benefit from the additional low-pass filtering that AV1 offers.October 30, 2018 at 10:54 PM #23515
Is anybody else using the same power supply solution without the interference that you are experiencing, and installed in the same location as yours? I’m guessing that the power supply is the most likely culprit, either introducing noise via the power lines, or due to proximity to components that are susceptible to noise (or both).
Also, does the PSU have a separate DC and AC ground? If so, are they continuous? I’ve read of folks resolving interference by simply connecting the DC and AC ground points, specifically on HAPP power supplies, but possibly a solution on other models as well.October 31, 2018 at 12:24 PM #23523
I’m guessing that the power supply is the most likely culprit, either introducing noise via the power lines, or due to proximity to components that are susceptible to noise (or both).
I think I’m with you on that one. This PSU was originally for a microusb charger that I cut the tip off of and soldered to a power jack. Retrogamingroundtable had mentioned the PSU brand (PWR+) hadn’t caused them interference on their systems so I went with it. (I also have a Duo-r with a PWR+ and there is no interference)
It only has the x2 pins coming out of the PSU and no round ground pin, so not really sure how it’s grounding internally.
The more I look into the JROK Sync Cleaner, the more I see it’s for systems where the image is not stable on the screen, like jumping all over the place or it’s such dirty sync that its a scrambled rainbow mess.
I once had a neo geo cd that came with a homemade power supply. a similar rolling wave would come from bottom to top and was similar, except it was just one massive wave at a time and was so bad you could see it moving through all colors, not just black.
The PWR+ was nice because it was so small, but maybe it’s time to get one of those bulky PSU’s for an arcade like a happ.
Thanks for the insight.October 31, 2018 at 4:10 PM #23526
I was recently using one of those microusb charger adapters. Some no name brand from the local electronics store, and probably comparable to what you’ve got. It undervolts, under load, resulting in sync drop outs and introducing noise. The device I was powering accepts 5V-12V. I went to a 12V Netgear power supply (from some old abandoned network switch or router presumably…but in my mind, a more reliably built power supply), and the problems all went away.
Arcade power supplies typically have the ability to be adjusted, and that really is a nice feature, particularly when powering arcade hardware that has a wide range of specs and needs.November 27, 2018 at 3:19 AM #23969
I recently purchased another wall wart with 5v 3A to see if it was any different.
Well this one was from china and the interference is even worse!
So it’s def some kind of issue with the PSU. This isn’t a neo geo forums but if anyone knows of a good PSU (I only need 5V for the MVS1FS) where you can adjust the 5V, let me know.
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