Need help getting a picture from my CPS2 games

[grafik__]

Been a lurker for awhile but felt it was time to post because I’m not going to get any further on my own!

I’ve been a long-time Neo Geo AES gamer and have just branched out into other arcade PCBs with the help of a Sigma HAKURYU Supergun, and an OSSC.

However I have not been able to get a picture (besides a solid screen of flat color) from my CPS2 boards. I have one standard PCB, Robocop from Data East, and I have no issues with that one, but I have not been able to get any of my CPS2 boards to work. I thought maybe it was the CPS2-A board at first, but I had a friend test that and it worked perfectly, and being that Robocop worked I’m wondering if it has something to do with the CPS2 signal syncing with the OSSC. If it’s not already obvious I’m very new at all this so forgive me if I’m a bit off in how I talk about signals and syncing 😉

My setup looks like this:
Sigma Hakuryu Supergun <–> Jamma harness out CPS A+B boards
Sigma Hakuryu Supergun <–> JP21 (RGB) out –> to JP21 SCART ADAPTER –> to OSSC
OSSC –> out to LG 4K display via HDMI

I’ve used this same exact setup for the Robocop PCB with no issues (well I had no sound but that’s a separate issue), but all I get with the CPS2 games is a single color screen, usually hot pink or green.

I will get some photos uploaded as well as I’m sure that will help show what my setup is, but if any of you have encountered this issue it would be great to hear a solution! Thanks!

[marqs]

That single color screen indicates there might be a contact problem between A+B boards, you’ll get the same result if you try using A-board alone.

[grafik__]

I’ll look into that, thanks!

[Anonymous]

You said you tested the a board. Did you also test the b boards and confirm they’re fully working?

[grafik__]

I thought that might be an issue so I sent a couple B-boards to my buddy and he confirmed them as working on his cabinet setup (and sent me photos of them running). Those particular boards were decrypted with no battery. I have another board that still has a battery and that one is giving me the same solid color result on my display. So I don’t think it’s the B-boards. I’ve now tested 5 B boards with the same result and two A boards.

Being that I’ve never run a CPS2 board successfully I wonder if I’m doing something terribly ignorant. From what I understand the B-boards fits onto the A-board. Simple as that right? Considering what Marqs said perhaps more pressure needs to be applied to get a good connection between the two boards? I doubt this is the case but being that I’m a CPS2 virgin I might as well throw out the question 🙂

I’d really like to upload some pics to give more context, but I’ll have to wait until I have a bit of free time to setup everything again later this week. Will keep you guys posted!

[Anonymous]

Do you have the clips that go into the side of the boards and keep them securely fitted together? Sometimes, these are necessary to ensure they stay seated firmly, but it’s unlikely you have 5 B boards that would all be giving you the same trouble.

Does the supergun have a readout on it showing you what the 5V line is actually at? If not, check it with a multimeter as close to the CPS2 JAMMA input as possible. Decase the A board if you have to, to check 5V with it running. It should measure right at 5.0V, maximum of 5.1V. 5.05V is safe and ensures a bit of compensation for minor voltage drop across the boards. Hopefully the supergun also gives you the ability to adjust 5V, in the event it is too low.

Lastly, what region are your B boards, and what region is your A board? The A board should have the region sticker on the top face (it will get covered once the B board is seated on it). Sometimes those stickers disappear tho. In that event, what color are the volume/test buttons on the side of the A board? I guess these answers can be avoided if your A board and your B board were tested together by someone else and confirmed working together.

[Author]

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