What RGB cables are best for OSSC-only usage in my setup?

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  • #38269
    callumbal
    Participant

    UK based user here.

    I currently own an NTSC RGB NES, which always seems to show some artifacting issues. Nothing game breaking, but it has started to make me wary. I’m using the passive (non-csync) 8pin Mini Din SCART cable from retrogamingcables. Could the cable be at fault here? I’m rather mystified at what does and doesn’t require csync.
    My console was modded for me, so I am unsure what exactly went on inside other than what the seller page listed (purchased last year from Oldskool Consoles). I’m a complete novice when it comes to mods and understanding the nuances.

    Things I would love some concrete answers to:
    1. Is csync always a safe bet when using the OSSC? I’m looking to get an NTSC RGB N64 and PAL Gamecube RGB cable from retrogamingcables soon. Can I safely pick the csync option, whenever available? How about that “universal SCART” they offer, which supposedly works with PAL Gamecube, All SNESes and modded N64s?
    2. Can using a passive cable with Tim Worthington’s NESRGB board cause any issues? I’m fairly certain that’s what I have inside my modded console. I have no idea if it was attuned to 75 ohm / TTL / whatever other terms of that nature means. The bottom of the unit has text reading 75R/CS, which probably signifies it’s set to the former? I’m honestly not 100% sure.

    Thanks!

    #38282
    BuckoA51
    Keymaster

    Hi,

    Can you elaborate what you mean by “artifacting issues”.

    We had some of Oldskool’s older mod work in before (a RGB NES too) and it worked but it wasn’t great, but he may have improved since then. What usually makes a big difference on these is using a better, low noise power supply.

    #38335
    callumbal
    Participant

    Can you elaborate what you mean by “artifacting issues”.

    Noisy-looking static, which is most noticeable on a plain, coloured background (Blue Sky in Mega Man, etc). Little pixel-sized blocks that will blip, all over. I think they show up when capturing too, so I could try recording something to show that.

    The power supply I use was also provided by the modder. It is a universal supply that can be set to a number of different voltages. It is set to 9v at the moment.
    Link: https://www.oldskoolconsoles.com/product-page/power-supply

    I do own a few other power supplies that should likely work with the system, but I didn’t fancy chancing it and went with their advice. Is there a recommended power supply I should try out and see if that improves the issue?

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