d0pefish
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Received, thankyou 🙂
I will dispatch this today for you.
Cheers!
Sure, I can send one to France – my PayPal is as above but I’ll need an extra £1.00 to cover international postage, so send me £3.50 GBP and your address, and I’ll put one in the post ASAP.
Cheers 🙂
Hi,
You’re in luck, I have a few left over!
My PayPal URL is: https://www.paypal.me/whinham
If you send me £2.50 and include your address I’ll pop one in the post for you.Cheers 🙂
Yes, ‘dwhinham’ is actually me 🙂
I got all my boards done at OSH Park successfully after those changes, so marqs was kind enough to merge them.
You should have no problem ordering them.If you wanted to skip the board upload stage altogether, you can just use this project link:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0IAKkJB7Sorry I didn’t see this thread earlier.
Sorry about the pictures – I believe I’ve fixed them now!
Nice pictures @OOQQ! Great to see it is back with you safely and working with all your consoles 🙂
You are, of course, most welcome; I’m glad I was able to help 🙂
@BuckoA51 I love to try and help/contribute where I can, especially where something as niche as the OSSC is concerned. I think the project is absolutely amazing and the work you are doing to get marqs’ invention into as many people’s hands as possible is just brilliant.Thankyou for hosting this forum and opening it up to all OSSC users/DIYers – it’s a great resource. 🙂
You’re welcome! 🙂
I also got a mail to confirm @philenotfound received his too.Good luck with the troubleshooting – you should be able to fix the bridge with some flux and some patience.
A couple of times, I found that too much flux and too many attempts at cleaning results in semi-conductive residue becoming trapped under the chips, causing subtle, hidden shorts that show up as unstable sync or the FPGA’s CPU crashing (garbled display).
To fix these, desoldering, cleaning, and re-soldering the TVP and/or Cyclone was the solution, as attempts at cleaning under the chips with IPA failed. So far no chips have died doing this – although I am experienced with SMD/hot air rework tools. Hopefully it won’t come to this for you.
Just a quick update – IR receivers (+ remote for @nehalem501) dispatched to all three of you today via airmail.
Please allow up to 5 days for delivery – hope they all reach you safely.Thanks 🙂
No problem guys, you can all buy my spares.
I’d like to keep one as a spare for myself though, so I’ll have no more available after you guys.
OOQQ/Nehalem501/philenotfound – email me at daleyo at gmail dot com with your shipping addresses and I’ll reply with the cost.
The IR sensors cost me £1.50 GBP, so that’s all I’ll ask + shipping.@OOQQ: No problem, the Chunghop is a nice remote. This one doesn’t have the learning ability, but is a good cheap alternative if you don’t care about the learning.
@Nehalem501: I’ll pick up a remote today for you.Spain is no problem, I’m in the UK so it won’t cost much.
Also, if you need a remote control, I found a very cheap and good quality remote here in the UK that only costs‎ £1.00 GBP:
It has a huge list of codes to use with different TVs, and I found one that allows nearly all of the buttons to be mapped to OSSC functions.
If you like, I’ll go buy one and send it to you with the sensor.
I will add this information to the wiki shortly in case it helps anyone else. 🙂
The IR receiver is essential to navigate menus and change options – without the remote, you won’t be able to do anything apart from switch inputs and scanline modes using the on-board buttons.
Hi OOQQ,
I’ve built 6 OSSCs successfully so far, so maybe I can help.
For the RCLAMP parts, I managed to solder these with just a standard iron and medium chisel tip, believe it or not. It’s not easy but it’s possible.
I’d recommend a strong magnifying glass or microscope, or if you have none of these (like me) use a good camera with zoom/macro feature so you can check your work.
Tin the pads on the PCB thoroughly – make sure you get all of them as they’re tiny, and put lots of flux on both them and the components.
Hold the part in place with tweezers, get a large bead of solder on the end of your iron, and run it up and down the side of the part until it flows underneath. The part will want to almost “snap” into place due to surface tension.The centre pad runs through both sides of the part, so once you have that pad soldered, the rest becomes easier.
When you think you have soldered one side, wipe your iron, flux the other side of the part, get a new bead of solder onto the iron and again, run it along the edge. Take care not to knock the part off the pads – use tweezers to help stabilise it.
Check your work frequently, and eventually you should have the following: (click the images to get fullsize)
Also – note the orientation. When looking towards the back of the HDMI port, the text on the RCLAMP parts should be readable and not upside down.
Once you think you are done, check continuity between the pins of the IT6613 and the HDMI port – just follow the traces that go through the RCLAMP parts. If you get continuity, you are golden. Also check that adjacent pints are not shorted.
If you have a hot air station, it gets much easier, as you can tin and flux the pads, place the part, and just heat it. The surface tension makes it simply snap into place.
Button orientation – yes, they can be placed any way. I like to put the dots towards the left as you look at the front of thew OSSC, but it’s just personal preference. The 2-legged crystal also can be placed any way.
Do you still need IR receivers? I have a small stock of these, about 4 I think. Where are you located?
Also, did you order from OSH Park? If so – nice – it looks like the plated slot fixes I sent to marqs have worked for you too, so that double-verifies them 🙂
Hope this helps – good luck!
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