PugHoofGaming
@pughoofgaming
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Well, while I haven’t had time to take comparison screenshots, I’ve been using my OSSC & Framemeister together (I use the Framemeister to “normalise” the OSSC output to something my Elgato HD60s unit can capture), powering them through separate USB cables straight into the Belkin power strip, and as far as I can tell there are no detrimental effects to the video quality.
Quite an elegant solution really, and it certainly gives me back two power sockets I can use for my consoles 🙂
Thanks – I think some experimentation might be necessary! This power strip does supposedly have a power filter, so hopefully, that might help.
I’ll order some USB cables, make some video quality tests and document them here.
Sorry to revive an old thread – I’m getting the exact same issue with my 1Chip Super Famicom through both Framemeister and OSSC.
Would there be any benefit attaching a ferrite clip on to the SCART/power cables on the SFC? Or maybe even trying a power conditioner?
I don’t know your exact setup, but I use this SCART distribution box, which accepts one input and sends it out to up to four output devices.
I got one from the linked retailer and its of excellent quality. I run it to my Framemeister, CRT and OSSC all at the same time with no signs of signal loss.
Don’t worry, I figured out the problem – I hadn’t wired the CS pad to anything. After soldering it to the pin 151 on the S-CPUN (via the hole below R9 on the underside of the board), and testing it works, I installed the dejitter board (connecting pin 151 to CSYNC_i on the dejitter, and the CS pad to CSYNC_o).
Everything seems to be OK now – Hopefully that helps anyone else who makes a similar mistake!
I just did a quick Google to see what resolution Third Strike runs at, and it looks like you can force different modes by holding a few buttons. Haven’t tried it myself but here’s what it says:
De-interlaced – After loading the GD-ROM keep pressing the Start button + L button until the Capcom logo appears on the screen.
240p mode with scanlines – After loading the GD-ROM keep pressing the Start button + Y button until the Capcom logo appears on the screen.
Normal screen – After loading the GD-ROM keep pressing the Start button + X button until the Capcom logo appears on the screen.
240p mode for scanlines (flawless) – Hold the Start button + L button until the Capcom logo appears on the screen.
240p mode for scanlines + anti-flicker/sprite filter – Hold the Start button + Y button until the Capcom logo appears on the screen.
480i screen, no scanlines + anti-flicker/sprite filter – Normal BootupMight be worth trying these with your profiles?
I replaced my C11 yesterday (alongside the three resistor brightness fix), and it was far easier than I expected. Despite the components being very small, it’s relatively easy to remove the existing C11 by overflowing solder and heating it up. It’s definitely recommended for 1chip systems, especially is it only takes a few minutes to do, and the component is so cheap.
Yeah, that’s the plan.
I had a crack at it this morning, so I’ve got a Wii outputting at 960p to the Framemeister (2xLine mode). The Wii is set to 480p, widescreen.
I’ve taken the default Framemeister profile, tweaking the sharpness, using Picture processing mode and Smart x1 mode. So far, it looks pretty good.
However, I wonder if there are any other Framemeister settings I’ve missed, that someone would recommend?
Sorry, should have been a little more detailed!
So, I’ve seen a few people use both for 480p sources, using the OSSC in 2xLine mode (for 960p) and then feeding that through to the Framemeister to resolve that into a 1080p output.
Also, feeding it through the Framemeister would also give me a little control more over zooming/scaling.
Basically, I’m trying to experiment and see what the best approach to capturing footage (currently using a HD60S, but I understand the Elgato Cam Link gives better results?)
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