[TenaciousJ728]

Sorry to ghost you guys and for this necro but I have important news.

I got it working again! The same Dell panel still won’t work on its own, no. So I threw a “middle man” between monitor and OSSC: a portable capture card with HDMI passthrough out. From capture card to monitor, got a picture like in day 1.

Thanks to paulb_nl for nailing the solution.

[TenaciousJ728]

Hmmm, very plausible. I may have mishandled the device as I suddenly rearranged the room.
Though do you think it would be cause for the OSSC to be this picky with displays too? As shown, it seems to work fine with my LG Ultrawide display. It doesn’t like my old LCD TV though. Of course, I’ve made sure the proper TX mode was set in each test.

Time to consider my options. More than likely a replacement unit will be in order. I appreciate everyone’s input.

[TenaciousJ728]

Yeah, same input as the monitor tells me. It offers DVI(preffered) and VGA inputs but only auto-detects and uses the active one, meaning no input changing options. In fact, the Dell monitor won’t let me make any tweaks in its menu when there’s no image nor when on standby.
And yeah, I tried tweaking TX modes to no avail. Tried it again just now for safe measure. Normally it’s on ‘DVI’ for this setup as this is how I got it to work initially.

I also tried using a separate, known-working HDMI cable with a F-to-F DVI-HDMI coupler. Nothing. But like before, it worked fine with my PC and Steam Link. I’m starting to see a pattern here…

[TenaciousJ728]

If this newbie may, I’d like to share my experience here as I’ve managed to pull off a solid RGB SCART sync.

First, what I have:
– Taito F3 mobo + RayForce cart
– Board-A Boardmaster (Blast City) supergun
– OSSC (out-of-box FW v0.81a) + a RetroGamingCables RGB SCART cable for Boardmaster (
– A cheap 23″ LG ultrawide LCD monitor.

The first thing I tried was unboxing the OSSC and getting my Taito F3 board to work with it. No luck no matter what I did. I then decided to try a Blue Elf bootleg cart I had laying around with better success. Games like Puzzle Bobble worked nicely but for some reason Metal Slug didn’t. I even left the supergun on and let it sit for a bit and it eventually established sync on its own.

That’s when I starting doing research and found this page. I did as suggested in page 2: adjusting the H-sync, V-sync tolerances, and the H-PLL Pre and Post-coast levels. And lo and behold, an image! …although many sync drops were had. I played with those levels some more as well as Analog sync Vth until I finally nailed a solid sync.

No sync drops, buttery-smooth gameplay!

See for yourself!

(It’s worth noting my supergun has a twist knob that regulates the H-position of the game’s image which proved to be a major factor when finding the right H-sync tolerance level. Sync would drop as I twisted the knob.)

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