[Unessential]

After doing more experimentation, and research. My guess is that CPS2 has a really weird resolution (512×262 after overscan) and digital upscalers don’t know what to do with the sync signal?

Trying it with yet another monitor gives “invalid resolution”. And since this is a Retrotink section i’ll reiterate that retrotink 2X gives a blank screen when used in conjunction with RGB2COMP (Again, i’ve tried many combinations, but i’ll stick to Retrotink products). Is there something out there that can trim/pad the video signal to something more standard that upscalers/LCD monitors are more likely to accept?

[Unessential]

Yes, by CPS2 I mean the Capcom Play System 2.

I use a lot of different setups, superguns and Arcade cabinets…., I don’t think it matters the problem occurs no matter what It seems. Even with setups that aren’t mine (when i’m running events) Also RGB signal is taken directly from the board through the jamma edge. The decoders/encoders/adapters/upscalers I mention would be those used either in the supergun, or in the chain directly from the board. Whether I run it to a converter through a header, or a SCART, it seems that if there’s a digital decoder in the chain It doens’t know how to handle the signal.

My guess is that the CPS2 does something “hacky” so that it works with CRTs, but not actually to spec and that’s why digital decoders mess up after the conversion to component? (or during the conversion to component?)

Again, I’ve never had problems going from RGB to S-video or composite, I guess because there’s less information, and less for the digital stuff to misinterpret.

That’s what I meant by what’s “wrong” with the cps2 signal when I asked. not that it’s not working for what it was designed for. But, there is probably something out of spec that’s messing things up (“wrong”) when these digital devices try and handle it after conversion to component.

[Unessential]

Sorry for reviving a year-old thread, but this is probably the most applicable. and it’s only the 2nd page in…

After buying this over a year ago (1.5 version) I finally have time to try and build it (well, I had time before but the parts didn’t come till like, half a year later).

What I can piece together from the instructions are (not much)…

-schematic — contain pinouts for the chips and connectors
— Case assembly – pretty straight forward
Stencil — ??? – I don’t recognize these file formats
BOM -> I’ve bought everything here.
Kit contents (nothing’s missing)
Assembly tips. (ok, i’ve read through it)

labels – which appear to label the joints but not what’s supposed to go there, (would seem to be useful when communicating but nothing references these labels)

Traces — Pretty illegible for me, everything overlaps, and font appears pixellated in a way which i can’t read it.

and a wrl file — google search shows that this is probably a 3d model? — which I don’t have the software to open, and i’m not looking forward to finding one and learning how to use it…

Basically Other than the obvious giant slots for the chips, I have no idea where everything goes…

I’ve worked on arcade boards, consoles, and done mods for them for a few years. So I figured I could put this together
I’ve never come across “instructions” like this before. Can someone point me in the right direction?
I have a feeling the traces file tells me where everything goes (TOP is much more readable than bottom, i can make out a couple of caps, and a couple of resistors), but the bulk of it is seriously is illegible for me. Is there a larger version where the text is less pixellated?

I guess I just have no choice but to just find software to open the 3D model and learn to use whatever software I get?

I’ve just ordered an assembled 1.6 But I’d still like to put together this 1.5 so I have an extra one for running events and as backup.

I recall before I made my original purchase I came across a more detailed workflow than the “example” in tips which did lay out and describe where all the parts go — With better diagrams. But I can’t seem to find that anymore.

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