Definitely better to have the resistor on the console end but even so the best way is to correct internally. Voultar even explains why in a post on Shmups but I can’t find it at the moment.
Attenuating the sync signal inside the console or 2cm across at the multi-out connector will have a microscopic difference. Certainly not worth it to let people remove their resistor which doubles as protection.
Many older cables lack the resistor on the sync line anyway. When Borti originally designed the amp I would guess that’s how most of them were. For the +12 volt I guess the resistor could act like a makeshift fuse.
The 12volt from a PAL console will be attenuated to about 1.5-2volt by the resistor. Even Borti himself says he always outputs the attenuated sync signal on the luma line on his own consoles because its not safe to use the CSYNC line:
I could use that with my “un-modded” 2-chip through the OSSC to see if I like the trade off for sharpness vs the slight visual issues with the 1-chip JR correct?
Remember to bridge the TTL sync jumper on the RGB mod board then you can use the same C-sync cable on both your consoles. Those visual issues are very minor and only appear on a few games but you will see a major difference in sharpness.