Newbie Starting Out – need opinions

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Viewing 8 posts - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • #22883
    paulb_nl
    Participant

    Definitely better to have the resistor on the console end but even so the best way is to correct internally. Voultar even explains why in a post on Shmups but I can’t find it at the moment.

    Attenuating the sync signal inside the console or 2cm across at the multi-out connector will have a microscopic difference. Certainly not worth it to let people remove their resistor which doubles as protection.

    Many older cables lack the resistor on the sync line anyway. When Borti originally designed the amp I would guess that’s how most of them were. For the +12 volt I guess the resistor could act like a makeshift fuse.

    The 12volt from a PAL console will be attenuated to about 1.5-2volt by the resistor. Even Borti himself says he always outputs the attenuated sync signal on the luma line on his own consoles because its not safe to use the CSYNC line:

    https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1263082#p1263082

    I could use that with my “un-modded” 2-chip through the OSSC to see if I like the trade off for sharpness vs the slight visual issues with the 1-chip JR correct?

    Remember to bridge the TTL sync jumper on the RGB mod board then you can use the same C-sync cable on both your consoles. Those visual issues are very minor and only appear on a few games but you will see a major difference in sharpness.

    #22892
    Soundwave GI
    Participant

    Thanks, I intend to use the Jr ultimately. It’ll just be nice to be able to compare.

    I opened up the Jr I had and I didn’t like the look of the inside as it had seen better days. Luckily I won a minty one on eBay yesterday so I’ll be waiting for that and the mod board. I’ll make sure to bridge that jumper as well once I have those. I saw some pre-modded SNES Jrs and 1-chips w 7374’s on eBay and apparently the seller swaps out some capacities as well. Is this something that I should be keeping an eye on? Is there truly a difference between any of the 1-chips (01-03 and Jr)? I’ve seen someone testing that, but results seem varied.
    The OSSC and cable should arrive early next week. Again, Thanks for all the info everyone.

    #22894
    NoAffinity
    Participant

    According to retrorgb, the jr/mini outputs the best RGB, but with the caveat that it doesn’t natively output RGB and will require a mod. And the taboo of the jr/mini being an “OEM clone”.

    The 1-chips output non-fuzzy and very good RGB natively and without the taboo of being an “OEM clone”.

    It’s all pretty subjective, with a few things to truly weigh in the balances for personal preferences, and chalk it all up to what you will.

    Those are my understandings of the differences, anybody is welcome to correct me on anything I got wrong or missed.

    #22899
    paulb_nl
    Participant

    I have done capture comparisons of my various SNES consoles 1CHIP-01/02 and Jr and there were no quality differences that can be seen with the naked eye. The brightness of most 1-CHIP consoles is too bright but you can fix that by calibrating the gain on the OSSC.

    The electrolytic capacitors in the SNES consoles are 20+ years old now so it is a good idea to replace them as a precaution. Console5 sells replacement kits: https://console5.com/store/nintendo-snes-mini-cap-kit-snn-models-snes-2.html

    #22901
    Harrumph
    Participant

    @noaffinity
    Actually retrorgb has since tested this much more thoroughly and, just like paulb_nl, his final conclusion was there are no differences at all between 1-chip revisions. I believe he made a youtube vid about it.

    Also the ”oem clone” issue is not related to the external enclosure (ie original model or mini/jr), only the chipset, and is the same for all 1-chips.

    #22902
    Soundwave GI
    Participant

    Awesome, thanks guys. I have a ton of info now and it was great to get it all cleared up. There is a lot of info out there and sometimes it’s tough to tell what is “the latest and greatest”, especially w the SNES. Now I just have to patiently wait for my stuff, which tracking shows I’ll have in a couple days.

    #22929
    NoAffinity
    Participant

    Actually retrorgb has since tested this much more thoroughly and, just like paulb_nl, his final conclusion was there are no differences at all between 1-chip revisions. I believe he made a youtube vid about it.

    Good to know. Seems like I’ve really gotten behind on the latest information. 🙁 But, hopefully this means mini/jr prices will come down a bit.

    #23789
    Soundwave GI
    Participant

    Maybe I should be finding a tech support section here? I saw installs/mods, but it can be moved if necessary.
    I finally got all my stuff together and found time to mod the SNES Jr. everything went well and I jumped the TTL. This is using the retro access csync cable mentioned earlier going to OSSC. Everything is generally working, however the picture cuts out every once in a while when I turn on the SNES, usually within a few seconds. I can either reset the console or cycle back through the inputs on the OSSC and everything is good from there on out. Only once have I had it cut out after a little bit of play time. This does not happen on my other consoles or my 2 chip SNES.
    Anyone have a clue what this could be?

    TIA!

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