AetherSmith
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Just to follow up, after some further searching I was able to find a Game Gear service manual: https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:service_manual_-_game_gear_va1.pdf.
The value for C34 is 2200 pF, and with a replacement in place everything’s looking good!
Oh, haha, it seems it literally came back in stock since yesterday! Thanks again for you help!
Alright, thank you! I’ve confirmed that with D5 removed, the OSSC operates normally. Seems I got really lucky here.
Looking towards replacing the diode, it appears to be out of stock everywhere at the moment. Can you tell me what specs I would need to look for in a replacement?
Thanks, that actually explains some behavior I’ve been seeing quite well! I confirmed that D5 was showing up as shorted, and after removing it U5 and U6’s inputs no longer show as shorted to ground with either switch position.
Is it safe to do a test power-on without D5 in place? I’m not the best at circuit design, so I could be completely wrong, but it looks like it’s just there to prevent damage in case the wrong polarity of adapter is used?
If it’s alright for me to piggyback on this topic, I’m dealing with the aftermath of a nearly identical screw-up. Protip for anyone who owns a gscartsw! The adapter may look identical, but DON’T under any circumstances let them get mixed up. The gscartsw uses a 9V supply…
When checking U5 and U6 as described, should position of the power switch affect readings? When the switch is turned on for mine, the input pins on both (and the enable on U6) show up as shorted to ground, but with the switch off only the ground leg of each shows a connection.
I did see somewhat similar results on my M70-C3 (the equivalent 2015 model) with HDMI 1-4 displaying much better compatibility than 5, though they of course gave higher lag. However, HDMI 5 hasn’t had any issues with 3x since several OSSC firmwares ago, while 5x has consistently never worked on that port. I also have a PS4 Pro, but I’ve never seen any kind of handshake issues like you describe.
The one odd thing I did notice for my first couple years of using this TV was that the video would occasionally drop for a second with 4K sources (I know it was the TV and not the source, because my sound system kept playing the audio properly). That’s cleared up in the past six months or so, though, possibly due to a firmware update for the TV.
Don’t know how much that helps, but I figure a little more info can’t hurt.
Okay, as promised, I’ve just finished updating my report on the Vizio M70-C3 (https://videogameperfection.com/forums/topic/tv-compatibility/page/4/#post-10298) to reflect the latest firmware. Sorry for the delay in getting this up, but I’ve been dealing with some extremely painful family circumstances in the meantime.
Csync is preferred when available, but there are some consoles (PSX, PS2, 1CHIP-03 SNES, some N64s depending on the RGB mod) that only output luma sync, which I don’t believe makes any appreciable difference in picture quality. The main thing is to avoid sync-on-composite, which is the one that can really result in artifacting.
Note that stores will offer Csync cables for consoles not supporting Csync, which means there’s an added sync stripper inside the cable. The OSSC supports all three sync types, so there’s no benefit to these over the regular ones passing the original sync signal from the console.
For my part, I’ve gotten all my cables from retrogamingcables.co.uk (funnily enough, for a Canadian it actually ends up being cheaper to get them from the UK than the US), and I haven’t seen any of the issues rebrove mentioned.
@harrumph Will do when I get the chance, I’ve just been a little pressed for time recently. I’ve also been following a possible lead on a PVM from a local broadcast station, so hopefully I’ll be able to confirm this series’ reputation for low lag for myself.
That’s surprising, I’ve got a 2015 M70-C3 (exact same series, just a larger size), and I’ve been quite pleased with its compatibility.
I don’t think TV compatibility should affect audio, are you able to get sound from anything else? At least on a stock OSSC, the 3.5mm jack is a direct passthrough of the SCART port’s audio; the OSSC doesn’t even need to be powered for it to work. Is it possible that there might be an issue with the SCART cable or your HDMI audio mod?
On the video side, how often are you seeing drops with your SNES, and on what firmware? I’ve very occasionally seen some for x3 and x4 with 0.76 on my M70-C3, but they were on the order of less than once per hour.
@zugspitzjockl Are you sure things are okay with the power? At least on my build, the LCD backlight would still light as long as it was getting power, regardless of whether it was getting any commands from the FPGA.
@LazyEpic Is there any behavior from the LEDs?I was thinking that the chip from my kit was missing its firmware for a while, but it turned out to be an almost imperceptible short to ground on one of the QFPs.
March 5, 2017 at 3:21 PM in reply to: Sticky – Essential OSSC Resources – Check before asking for support! #11642Is it just me, or is the XRGB Wiki page blank all of the sudden? I’m seeing this across every device and browser I’ve tried.
I believe this is a duplicate of https://videogameperfection.com/forums/topic/rotate-screen-180-degrees/.
Unfortunately, rotation is impossible without a full framebuffer (and would unavoidably add a full frame of lag).
I did try a few different things, and I found that the linetriple is a fair bit more stable when I run the signal through my AV receiver (a Denon AVR-S910W), though still not what I would call playable for anything action-based. Changing the HDMI Tx mode has no effect at all, and the sync drops are definitely on the digital side of the equation, as I’ve kept an eye on the OSSC during the drops and there’s never so much as a flicker of red from the LEDs. Normal linedouble works fine, which would also rule out an analog sync issue.
I’ve switched off all the postprocessing features on the TV and AVR and switched them into their respective gaming low-latency modes, but I don’t have a CRT handy to get a good measure of how much lag may still be introduced by the chain. Experimenting with some of the pair’s processing features seemed to improve stability in some cases but worsen it in others, so I ultimately chalked up any improvement to the TV’s handling of the OSSC’s out-of-spec signal just being unpredictable.
Huh, well what do you know, that did the trick! Not sure if the driver is any different between your link and the one that comes with the current version of Quartus, but the Quartus 13 programmer that came with the download was much more stable and responsive in use. Maybe the blaster I got just really doesn’t like Quartus 16.
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