nzChris
@nzchris
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@bluestinger did you ever find a resolution to this? I installed on a few UK consoles also around two years back and had the same issues with OSSC loosing sync and the red light popping up till I restart the console. I also had sold one and had it returned which was terrible.
I think I need to do the test again but directly into my TV SCART connection and look at it objectively without the OSSC making it pretty. I think the real question is, did it fix the jail bars? the brighter colours it seems are more of a preference thing and you could probably tweak the OSSC to do this anyway.
Yeah I have an Everdrive so I will load that game up and give it a test later too.
I have 11 PAL Mega Drives high def and non, mostly Chinese, two made in Thailand and one Japanese PAL (All modded to NTSC), I will do some more comparison this weekend.
Yeah I remove the RF adaptors off all of my Mega Drives to mount a region switch there, no need to drill extra holes everywhere plus it’s only hipsters that would want to play through RF lol.
Never heard of this audio amp before, my understanding is if you have the Yamaha YM2612 you have good audio and the models with the YM3438 are the ones that need a replacement. Might pay to find out which sound chip was used for the before example.
Hey there,
You describe the same experience I have here. With the OSSC you can clear the image up by enabling the Low Pass Filter. Play around with the LPF in the output? and sync menus and you should find a combination that works.
* Have you followed the OSSC optimal tuning YouTube video? HIGHLY recommend you do so if not!
With regards to I’d there an improvement I’m starting to think it is sideways. I bought a job lot of Mega Drivrs so I have a few to test. Here is a photo I took yesterday of a stock MD1 with NTSC mod. And then a MD1 with bypass.
Maybe I haven’t chosen an interesting background but I’ve decided I prefer the darker green on the stock image. The bypass board green I a bit more yellow.
With the bypass you can see some extra colours on Sonics head.
What do you think? I should try take some shots of other games to compare again.
Chris
Power and ground as they go into the bypass board.
It can be tricky to solder to these pins but I have heard Voultar recommend taking power and ground from here many times.I would try taking power and ground directly from the voltage regulator, its the 7805 closest to the front of the unit.
Yes I would absolutely recommend you lift up pin 50, that is what made mine look perfect from being a mess before.
If you still have issues after this maybe look at snipping the legs on the CXA1145 (20/21/22/10).
Good luck! it really is worth it, I have been playing my Megadrive constantly since I got this working, especially good with the OSSC and turning on scanlines = )Ok this should be my final post, I chatted with Voultar and managed to get it working.
The last part of the puzzle was lifting pin 50 on the VDP which is the redundant subcarrier.
You might not be able to tell from the photo but it is razor sharp and not even a hit of jail-bars to be seen in any light.Yes this is what it looks like now, with the new revision the capacitor values etc have been changed so I am assuming these would fix the lines. TBH I cant figure out how and where to buy the smd components so I have ordered the new board direct from Voultar.
Okay it seems like the issue was resolved on the newer version of the board!
https://voultar.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=73
https://voultar.com/image/cache/catalog/SegaRGB-500×500.jpg
You can see on the newer boards the +5V has a link to the CYSNC and the component values have been updated also.
Hope this helps someone else as I’ve been scratching my head for a long time.Chris
Shit it's saturday: This board is so simple to assemble that you can solder this while being shitfaced. Stupid easy simple sega amp designed by @Voultar. Works on SMS, Genesis 1/2, Sega CD and more! Provides a cleaner image and bypasses the cxa1145 encoder and more! pic.twitter.com/fNjTiZnyLh
— iFixRetro (@iFixRetro) August 4, 2018
Hi Renovigo,
Thank you for your reply, I have had this project on hold for the past month now with no progress.
This evening I managed to get it to work after seeing a number people connecting the +5v to the csync on the voltar board with a 2.2k resistor as below.@Voultar Genesis rgb bypass board in a late model 1 master system looks crisp and I don't notice any jailbars I used 4.42k resistors instead of 5.6k looks great thanks voultar also for the troubleshooting! pic.twitter.com/z8KGf3G84e
— Frankym2612 (@frank1382008) July 29, 2018
@Voultar Simple Sega RGB bypass on a 1st Gen Genesis! No more jailbars! pic.twitter.com/5RiYloR9gs
— iFixRetro (@iFixRetro) August 9, 2018
All of a sudden I have a signal on my OSSC and it is operational.
The colours are now vibrant, but there are huge vertical lines everywhere, I assume these will be corrected by swapping out the SMC components to the new values Voultar has suggested.
I bet if I tried your way it would have worked also so thank you for taking the time to respond.cheers,
ChrisYes I have tried both ways on the csync with a generic cable, I have also bought a retrogamingcables cable to try with no luck. Only thing I haven’t tried/replaced at this point is a different Voultar board.
Here you go! 4 hours of install haha, around 33 mins in what you want.
Ok thanks, hopefully it’s something simple = )
Hi all, sorry to hijack but I’ve been trying to get my bypass board working for a week now with no luck. I’m no expert but have successfully modded my MD1 VA4 PAL with region and cpu overclock mods in the past. I have followed the guide to a tee, although there are some minor differences with my board.
– Cut all traces from the 315-5313 and left the pull up resistors.
– Removed the resistor on the csync and installed a 2.2k resistor as suggested.
– Cut legs 21/22/23 and 10 on the CXA1145, however during troubleshooting I ended up soldering directly from the bypass board outs to the DIN pins directly (and cut the traces by the connector for good measure).I have used a multimeter and tested all signals to make sure they get to/form the bypass board and are isolated.
Various sources have said that you should install a 220uf cap and 470Ω resistor on the csync line in the SCART end of the cable, so I have tried this too.
My OSSC just says ‘NO SYNC’, anyone have suggestions as to what I could check?
I have just read this note on retro RGB and wondering if this could be the problem.
“I suggest soldering to the VDP’s sync pin, but not lifting it, as some model Genesis consoles require the pin for the Z80 to run.” -
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