[samson7point1]

Morpheus_79, thank you so much, that was just the information I needed to spot the gap in my understanding – everything is working perfectly now!

I tested continuity to the SCART conductors _before_ I removed the board and never re-tested them because I thought getting analog audio confirmed that they were connected. The process of removing the board weakened two of the wires (I really am going to stop using 30 AWG wrapping wire for stuff like this). When I went in to take pictures of the board and re-test continuity I found that the solder joints were fine but the wires had weakened on the ends, broken loose and were just loosely resting against the SCART conductors.

So the first mistake I made was not fully cutting those traces (because I eyeballed it instead of checking continuity) and the second was not re-testing continuity of all of the other connections AFTER reassembly.

What’s ironic is that I should have known better about the analog audio thing. I don’t know jack about electrical engineering so portions of it still seem like black magic to me, but in hindsight this was obvious. I had to refer to the 1.5 PCB diagram to figure out which pin on the IT6613 was the I2S so I could bypass the lifted pad, and I saw that all three of those traces were put to ground, but I didn’t realize what I was looking at until you said something.

Again, thanks for your advise, it was exactly what I needed!

[samson7point1]

With my limited understanding of how this board works, I realize this might be an ignorant question, but doesn’t the fact that I still get analog audio after cutting that trace mean that at least that part of the signal is going through the board?

[samson7point1]

Is there any kind of debug firmware or menu that I can use to verify that the audio board is working? Is there some point on the board I can test with a multi-meter to confirm whether or not it’s dead? What’s the next step here?

[samson7point1]

I checked that and it was apparently set to that by default. Just for good measure I switched it between DVI and HDMI a couple of times but it didn’t make any difference.

[samson7point1]

Really awesome update. The 5X mode is absolutely beautiful. I do seem to have a bit of a problem with it. When the OSSC starts up in 5x mode, the image is shifted down by about 20%. The only way I can get the image to move back into the correct position is to switch to 4x mode and back. I’m assuming this is a bug?

[samson7point1]

Well, I can tell you for my part that I didn’t hear a rumor, I just made assumptions. Ever since graduating from coax, every AV connector I’ve used had discrete conductors for audio, I would never have guessed that the audio was “muxed” with the video in HDMI. Thanks so much for dispelling my ignorance and for the links!

[samson7point1]

Sony KDL-70R550A

x2 Works
x3 Works
480i Passthru Works
480p Passthru Works
480p x2 Works

Consoles tested so far:
RGB modded PC Engine Duo-R
RGB modded N64
Super NES
Atari Jaguar
Genesis 2
Genesis 2 w/32X*
Playstation 2**

*With the 32X attached there were significant jailbars and interference patterns. I did not attempt to make any adjustments to correct it. Removing the 32X improved the image clarity significantly but jailbars and interference were still slightly visible. I suspect this is really a problem with the console, though I do not see these artifacts when connected to a Sony Wega CRT.

**I used the Gran Turismo 4 to test various display modes, including 480p, 480p X2 and 480i passthru. The 1125i/1080i passthru mode showed no output, however I remember the PS2 1080i mode being squirrelly even on CRT HDTVs so I’m not ready to say the mode doesn’t work with the OSSC. The 480p linedouble mode was detected by the TV as 1440x900p. The aspect ratio was correctly preserved, but the image had a large black border that I could not adjust with the TV’s “zoom” feature.

Will update as I make my way through my consoles.

[samson7point1]

Is 707 in batch 2 or 3?

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