TheCorfiot

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 22 total)
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  • in reply to: GameScare switch adds apparent WiFi noise in the RGB output #71011
    TheCorfiot
    Participant

      Unless you have a steel plate in your hand then your hand position is irrelevant to the WiFi broadcast dispersion.

      This does however sound like a grounding issue, ground loop or a fault with the ESP32 controller on the switch.

      The band image on the screen is a low frequency 50Hz Hum bar…

      WiFi frequencies at 2,4GHz are beyond being displayed by video amplifiers which at best cut off around 20MHz bandwidth.

       

      • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by TheCorfiot.
      in reply to: Genesis Model 1 VA6 RGB Bypass Issues #67406
      TheCorfiot
      Participant

        Hey Scott

        Bas From BetaGamma here.

        I’m going to be honest with you its a pretty bad install, I can see lifted tracks, shorts and you are hooking up to wrong pins left right and centre.

        These mods do require a degree of precision as there are some fine micro pitched legs on the main chip.

        There is an official install document I produced which is linked on the sales page but I cant see any evidence that was followed.

        Truthfully it needs complete removal, repairs to tracks and pads etc and then a fresh install in accordance with the install doc.

        To obtain the reduced noise performance with this bypass board strict attention to the path and placement of the wiring is required to reduce digital noise pickup, that hasn’t been paid any attention either..

        My advice is do some research and read the install document

         

        in reply to: TMS-RGB V2 & SEGA SC-3000 #64963
        TheCorfiot
        Participant

          Very likely normal.

          The TMS video out signals rely on external pullups, 270R if memory serves, but pls check the schematics.

          The original board probably had the required pull up resistors on it.

          in reply to: Nintendo RGB Bypass Amp (Revision 4.1b) + Super CIC ++ CSYNC #64221
          TheCorfiot
          Participant

            Good morning

             

            Answers to your questions

             

            1. Yes this is the way, dont double buffer or you will delay csync timing

            2. Yes remove it

            3. See VGPs response

            in reply to: OSSC PRO settings for Atari 1040STe #64083
            TheCorfiot
            Participant

              Hi Felipe

              ST and STe scart cables are notorious for sync issues where scart cables are concerned…

              This is because they don’t natively have 5 or 12 Volts on the monitor connector which is usually used by other systems to derive the Fast blank switching voltage on scart Pin 16 which TV’s need to be informed to use RGB signalling instead of composite video.

              Instead a “hack” which works most of the time was used using the Vsync signal and a 10uF capacitor to ground to provide a “rough” blanking voltage.

              And Yes commercial cables used this.

              The OSSC and Pro have no need for a fast blanking signal.

              If you don’t mind trying an experiment…

              Open your scart plug and look at pin 16… if it is connected by a wire then snip it.

              Please double check your numbering….I cannot be held liable.

              By all means upload a picture or 2 of your scart so we can advise further.

               

              Most ST scart cables have

              150R inline RGB resistors

              330R inline CSYNC (pin20) resistor

              • This reply was modified 1 year, 12 months ago by TheCorfiot.
              TheCorfiot
              Participant

                Yes it can be a bit of a nightmare…

                My advice is use the buffered sync from the scic board

                Cut the tracks for RGB at the video out port then stick the rgb board in place.

                Run the RGB signals from the mainboard as identified in the docs but use the scic out for csync

                in reply to: TMS-RGB V2 PAL Coleco #62505
                TheCorfiot
                Participant

                  Installation of this type of board does really need a fine tip iron with good technical skills

                  5v shorted to red indicates the red output was shorted or cabled up incorrectly causing the chip to fail.

                  The soldering in general concerns me, there appears to be pcb damage to the one board near the chip leg pads…

                  I assume you have insulated the rear of the board using Kapton tape to prevent short circuits to the pcb.

                   

                  Sometimes before starting such an install its a good idea to research it online and pickup done tips, do’s and dont’s on the way.

                  But well done you got it working

                  in reply to: Colecovision Secam PAL #58774
                  TheCorfiot
                  Participant

                    Hi There

                    I would try reflowing the 3 signal inputs using some liquid flux.

                    I also notice that you are using a megadrive cable. These cables have inline components and its recomended you remove the three resistors on the tmsrgb board and jumper them instead. If your cable also has a csync inline resistor you will need to connect to the other csync pad on the tmsrgb.

                     

                    If you have carried out the above and confirmed continuity on the RGB lines from the tmsrgb output pads to the scart plug pins then its possible the tmsrgb board is not functioning correctly

                    TheCorfiot
                    Participant

                      At this point you could do with the use of a scope to confirm your connections to the tms pin b-y is good and signal appears.

                      You can also check the B output of the board with the scope.

                       

                      But basically you are missing Blue

                      in reply to: SNES Jr RGB MOD Help Please #57775
                      TheCorfiot
                      Participant

                        I dont think you are picking up the CSYNC signal from the right place

                        in reply to: SNES PAL 1Chip with RGB bypass VGP 4.1b #55958
                        TheCorfiot
                        Participant

                          Hello There

                          As replied above, you can ignore R18 being replaced due to the cable you plan to use.

                          Regarding the RGB lines, it is your call tbh the vias alongside the resistors are indeed tracked to them.
                          some people shy away from soldering direct to VIA’s as they can be delicate, but if you use thin enough, eg AWG30 kynar you will be fine….

                          If a brightness mod is required then installers will take the rgb outs from the chip resistors and leave the vias free in order to hook up the pull down resistors required for the brightness mod

                          Regarding Q3, the capacitors should really be removed

                          • This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by TheCorfiot.
                          in reply to: SNES Mini RGB bypass 4.1 – Sync issues #54967
                          TheCorfiot
                          Participant

                            The Bridge has been seen on a few consoles, its a factory manufacturing issue however not a big deal as both those pins are ground anyway.
                            Advise removal before fitting the bypass board.

                            Before fitting the board to a junior you need clop the pins on 3 capacitors, the 2 in your picture and one further right.
                            Also ensure you insulate the underside of the board with tape.

                            Ensure you have fitted 1k2 resistors to the rgb pads as required and you can replace c11 with a 220nF capacitor to reducer ghosting.

                            I would reflow your rgb connections on the pcb socket header, remove existing solder first, you don’t need much but you do need to keep each pin heated for a good 6 or seven seconds to ensure a smooth even solder joint on all the parts.

                            Csync should be taken from pin 18 of the video encoder.

                            Finally ensure you have correctly set the jumpers for attenuation or csync buffering.

                            in reply to: Component Mod on Spectrum 48k not working #50566
                            TheCorfiot
                            Participant

                              Silly question but have you flashed the current firmware ?

                              in reply to: Component Mod on Spectrum 48k not working #50545
                              TheCorfiot
                              Participant

                                Are the jumpers set correctly for the right output frequency

                                in reply to: NTSC Nintendo 64 – RGB Mod – Sync-on-Composite #49698
                                TheCorfiot
                                Participant

                                  I would say you are spot on…

                                Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 22 total)