[RowanSFC]

[quote]Paulb_nl (author of the profile editor webapp) wrote this on Shmups forum:

If you want to export your profiles from an older firmware version than version 0.89 then that is possible.

Select “Export sett.” after updating to firmware 0.89 and it will write your profiles to the sdcard. In the profile manager, select the firmware version of the profiles you want to import and you can then drag and drop the file into the profiles manager. It will show a list of the profile versions contained in the file and if they were skipped or not. After that you need to use the Import json button to import the settings.[/quote]

What I didn’t understand from reading this is that you can drag the .bin file into the “json paste” field. That seems to work great, except all of the profile names seem to be lost. @marqs are the profile names being exported from the OSSC into the bin file?

[RowanSFC]

Minitool Partition Wizard Technician – click “Data Recovery” option on the 16MB partition to extract the file.

EDIT: UFS Explorer Pro is probably a better fit for this task.

[RowanSFC]

Before I go any further, I want to say thanks to marqs for this great new feature! 🙂

As a workaround I noticed that various partition manager software for Windows can see the card and file (OSSCPROF.BIN), even when Windows explorer cannot.

So this feature exports a BIN file (OSSCPROF.BIN) rather than a JSON file? Is there any way to convert the BIN file to JSON? That would be useful so that we can view and manipulate it on the PC side.

[RowanSFC]

Yes Zacabeb! That’s fixed it, thanks so much.

[RowanSFC]

I’ve tried doing this, so I could document it clearly for other users facing the same problem but I’ve got stuck.

I had the problem that +/- vol on my Yamaha amp receiver was causing the OSSC to adjust phase +/-. So, I followed the advice on the wiki (hold BTN1 on OSSC boot to configure buttons), and proceeded aiming to re-program the OSSC from the OSSC remote, setting some dummy commands for phase +/- (as I do not use the function from the remote anyway). It started well.. on booting with BTN1 held, the OSSC OSD popped up asking me to press 1, confirm 1, press 2, confirm 2 etc, going through many of the buttons. However, when it got as far as asking me “Press LCD_BACKLIGHT”, the OSSC stopped responding to any button presses from the remote. So at this point, I picked up another remote (my bluray player) and it took the button presses from that, to move forward through the process. At the end of the process the picture came back (my N64).. but now NONE of the buttons on the OSSC remote did anything. e.g. the button I’d programmed for MENU (“MENU”) is not bringing up the menu. OK, so I thought I’d reset as per wiki instructions (press BTN0 at start of remote learning process).. but after doing that its the still the same, the OSSC remote is not controlling the OSSC, I can’t bring the menu up or anything.

This is the remote in question, which came with my OSSC https://i.postimg.cc/ydJd3Wcb/1604955689113.jpg

I even tried batteries from another remote, in case they had suddenly died, but that didn’t help either.

Any advice please? Many thanks.

[RowanSFC]

Black-Frame Insertion is disabled (its called “Motion Pro” for some reason in the LG menu, not “Black Frame Insertion”). I tried enabling it, just makes the screen darker, but it has no effect on the strange effect I mentioned. Maybe the effect is part of the game… when I pause the game the effect pauses. Anyway, I hope to try on another display soon, when I can. I would bypass the OSSC but LG B8 doesn’t have scart sockets!

[RowanSFC]

OK thanks for info guys. I tried again to capture the effect on camera but even when I disable various “auto” ISO,brightness,white level etc parameters the camera still seems to auto adjust brightness and therefore not pick up whats happening.

If it was the ABL would it not be applying the dimming effect evenly to the entire screen? The way it happens is really glitchy, and appears in a sort of graduated band, flickering, alternating between the top of half of the screen and dimming of the entire screen.

I don’t have another TV or scart lead to test on at the moment, which sucks.

[RowanSFC]

OK I take your point. But.. the OSSC can detect a paused game and applies the dimming affect automatically, right? What (if any) other scenarios is the OSSC automatically trying to detect, if any? Just pause? ….or is it my LG B8 telly which auto dims when a static image is present for ~1min?

I’m pretty sure I have every kind of processing disabled on my LG OLED.. motion eye care, eco, dynamic contrast, etc etc. I just thought its odd how the problem is happening only on the water levels of this one SNES game.. not on other SNES games, not on Wii U, not on TV shows, not on Kodi or Netflix.

I supposed I wondered if the game’s water effect (its like every scanline is moving back and forth 1px ahead of the line above) is triggering interlace detection(?) or a false-positive detection of some other scenario, which might be confusing the OSSC?

I will try to make a video anyway (and try it on another display), as its so curious.

[RowanSFC]

Thanks for info guys.

Sorry when I said fullscreen I didn’t mean 16:9 stretched, I have it OK in 4:3 aspect ratio.

Non-integer scaling of console stuff didn’t look good to me on a 1080p TV, from previous endeavors, but now on my 4K OLED, non-integer scaling (done by the TV) looks very acceptable, I’m guessing because the extra resolution of 4K is allowing things to look more even. I haven’t explained that very well but I know what I mean. >_<

Just completed SNES Street Fighter II Turbo via the OSSC.. quite the milestone (on my non-1chip SNES). 🙂

Not looking too shabby?
https://i.postimg.cc/b81QJmjp/SF2-OSSC1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/R4VNBdSP/SF2-OSSC2.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/zXKJjywc/SF2-OSSC3.jpg

[Author]

Posts