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I go through the same steps using 240P suite to get a good image and Im just struggling this time. Pixels don’t look square and crisp.

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Ahh,

A little more digging, for some reason I got slightly different results from my internet search probably a different engine, it seems for the core grafx and later PCE that one of the caps to replace is the C121.

I replaced this too and the jail bar is gone.

However, could there be any issue with having 3 of these caps replaced?

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I believe the jailbars on the model 1 mega drive is caused by the composite signal interfering with the RBG, and the only way to fix it is to mod your MD lifting one of the legs of the graphics processor.

However with the X-eye I don’t know if this is the case.

I have a UK Model 1 MD and has terrible jailbars, and I have a UK Sega Multimega and it has none.

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I’ve even got a Composite to RGB converter and the OSSC doesn’t like that most of the time. it seem the refresh rate is all over the place.

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This looks very interesting. It will also help against the image looking so dark when you use heavy scanlines.

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Take a look at my post a few months ago.

VGA input seems to have lost red

This is what happened to mine. It looks almost exactly the same

Mine was replaced and was a very quick turnaround.

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It looks like the VGA port has lost red. Do things on the screen which should be red look black?

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I think this as you said is your best option

Console -> OSSC -> HDMI Splitter
                       ├-> Gaming monitor
                       └-> Capture device

That way the only thing adding lag is your monitor and as mentioned, the OSSC does clean up the signal some so splitting the OSSC output will mean better quality on the monitor and better quality on the stream. Plus once the OSSC is setup, it makes setting up the stream easier. The Sync Strike keeps the signal 720×240 resulting in a flat image which you have to manually stretch in OBS.

Good luck with your setup and speed runs.

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It sounds like we have almost IDENTICAL setups and I’ve probably tried all your possible combinations, so I hope I can help you here. 😉

First I’ll start by saying playing a game via your PC monitor through the capture device is a no go. It adds way too much lag, probably anything from 0.1 to 1 second of delay.

My original setup was a SCART matrix/splitter with one signal going to the CRT TV and the other going to a Sync Strike, which then plugs into a StarTech PEXHDCAP (basically the older version of your USB capture card) via a VGA cable with a VGA to DVI converter. I don’t know about the USB3HDCAP but my older PEXHDCAP it has an audio jack for audio in so it was easy to get sound and audio in from the Sync Strike. If your capture card doesn’t have an audio jack input you can still feed the audio into your PC’s line in and use OBS/XSplit to use that as an audio source. I did use a SUPER quality triple shielded 3m VGA cable for £4.99 ($7 US). The cable should have been more than 10 times that. Its actually a very beautiful cable if you appreciated things like that ;). With this VGA cable the quality of this setup was great and people made a lot of comments about the good quality, but it was lots of wires.

I’ve since removed the sync strike and use the OSSC, so I have a scart CRT feed and a HDMI OSSC feed (and now a HDMI Splitter).

All this boils down to what equipment you already have and whether you want to keep the CRT and how much you are willing to spend.

Lets start by talking about getting the signal to your computer. I’m sure you know what the OSSC and Sync Strike can do but here are the basic advantages one over the other

The Sync Strike has two basic advantages
1) is more plug and play (to some extent, it doesn’t need any sync strike setup but may need more fiddling on OBS/X-Split)
2) is about 1/8th the cost of a OSSC.

The OSSC basic advantages are
1) it can clean up the analogue signal giving a sharper/better image.
2) it allows use of HDMI cables, which will carry audio meaning fewer wires, as well as more accessibility of cables. HDMI are cheap, easy to get hold of and will be more supported than VGA/DVI on future capture cards.
3) SCANLINES, obviously! Scanlines are hit and miss on streams and youtube, but I set it to the lowest setting 6%, which on a good quality stream gives a nice hint of a scanline, but on poorer quality stream compression kinda blurs them out.
4) more flexibility for other consoles, as it has VGA, component and scart inputs.
5) no need for a scart splitter, which are expensive and not easy to get hold of.
6) once the OSSC is setup for the Super Nintendo there’s less fiddling in OBS/X-Split (aspect ratio correction etc)

Next, what do you want to game on?

If you have to have CRT, you will need a scart splitter and then its down to whether you can afford a OSSC.
If you are willing to play on a digital screen (LCD/LED) you could use the OSSC and then a HDMI splitter to split the signal between a monitor and your capture card. The splitter I use (Which cost about £20) states it will not create any additional lag my simple tests does support that.
I have a cheap gaming monitor (about £100), decent screen, low lag, crap sound, and that is between 0-1 frames behind my CRT TV. I’ve then tested on an old LCD TV and that had about 3-5 frames of lag. I’ve played reaction games like Sonic the Hedgehog on the old LCD TV and I thought I was losing my abilities it as it felt I wasn’t reaction quick enough to parts of the game, I thought I was getting worse at the game. Playing on a gaming monitor it felt just like the CRT and I was reacting quickly.

But as stated it all depends on what equipment you’ve got and how much are you willing to spend.

I think I use the best setup for you which gives great flexibility but you need the equipment.

Console -> Scart Splitter
                ├-> CRT
                └-> OSSC -> HDMI Splitter
                                ├-> Gaming monitor
                                └-> Capture device

If you have a scart splitter but don’t have/cant afford OSSC

Console -> Scart Splitter 
                 ├-> CRT
                 └-> Sync Strike -> Capture device

If you don’t scart splitter you need an OSSC

Console -> OSSC -> HDMI Splitter
                       ├-> Gaming monitor
                       └-> Capture device

Here are some youtube videos using my setup.
This one is a scanline test using the first setup. Its a PC Engine and I was testing the quality of the scan lines.

This one is an older video and using the middle setup (scart switch and Sync Strike).

Sorry if this was so long and ended up being useless. Please feel free to ask me any questions. If you want I can do a comparison between a Super Nintendo via Sync Strike and OSSC and upload it to youtube.

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Does this happen when using other TVs?
I:ve played dreamcast for hours via the VGA and not had an issue.

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I saw your update, but I had an Amiga 600 which did the same before refusing to work, and that turned out to be a cap failure, even though none seemed to be leaking.

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I’ve got a CMVS made by someone else and I didn’t have to change anything to get it to work with the OSSC

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It is quite strange.
The display says
RGBS 312P
15.66kHz 50.19Hz
And its working. but the picture is terrible.

I have found if I have everything connected and turn the computer on the frequency, refresh rate and resolution is bouncing around.
However this time I turned everything on and C64 was still connected to the TV directly, with everything turned on I plugged the composite cables in to the RGB converter and the information holds steady and it displays on the LCD fine, but video capture isn’t good as it loses signal many times.

If I turn the C64 off and on the information above starts bouncing around again.

Another update, after having everything working perfectly find for about 30 mins. I turned the C64 off and on and tried the disconnecting and reconnecting the composite video cable while on trick and the OSSC is struggling to lock refresh.

It seems this setup for the C64 is very fickle. Either, the C64 refresh changes as it gets warm or the composite to RGB converter does.

I’ll just have to try and find another way of doing it.

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The red light flashes off and on and the frequency on the display screen is changing between 50.05 and 50.15.

Is there a way of manually setting the frequency to see if that helps?

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Would it need a buffer?
I don’t understand fully how the OSSC works but what I do understand is the OSSC gets the line from the analogue signal and then pumps it out digitally either doubling, tripling etc the output line.

Is it possible, to say, when it reaches line 960, it then outputs 120 blank lines? It won’t use the full screen size of 1080 and will ultimately cause it to be in a box in the middle of the screen, but it will make the resolution more standard and accepted by more TVs.

I have seen an option which asks which resolution you want one of the multipliers to output.

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