[Das Man]

TCLs are generally safe.

[Das Man]

@JVoorhees That SNES won’t come with the Dejitter board, but you may not need it. I would just try it out first with the OSSC. You don’t want to keep a Framemeister around just for the SNES, and the OSSC will give you a nicer picture too as long as its compatible with your TV. If it isn’t, it’d still be cheaper and give you better results to add the board to your SNES or get a new one with it and sell that one, than to keep the FM.

[Das Man]

@opossum I did replace all my HDMI cables with premium certified cables for best results. I found that SNES still dropped sync intermittently only in 5x mode, though sometimes it only seemed to happen soon after having started a game, and then it looked like the signal stabilized. But I cannot say if drops would happen after more time because I did not test this mode extensively, since I decided that on this TV, for my taste, 3x looks much better (in non-PC, and any picture mode other than Game mode). These drops could also be due to something else in my setup, so it would be good if another c8 owner could verify.

I did not see drops in either 3x or 4x mode (though 4x I also did not test extensively because I did not like how it looks).

I do not have a Neo Geo so I did not test that system.

[Das Man]

Yeah, I’m sorry I used the wrong terms before. Do you get a signal with the other two line5x formats using other consoles? That would indicate whether the display may be incompatible or not with those resolutions.

[Das Man]

You can change the line5x format in the output settings. By default its 1920×1080 which results in a few lines at the top and bottom to be cut off as you noticed. The other two modes will give you a smaller but full picture and then you can use your TV settings to fill the screen more if you want.

Edit: corrected wrong terms used

[Das Man]

Thanks for that suggestion, I tried making sure that little switch was fully one way or the other but it did not make any difference.

I’m sure I’ll be getting a replacement unit, but I’m still very curious about what could cause this problem, and in particular how the OSSC can still affect the sound just by being hooked up even without power.

[Das Man]

I’m concluding now that something must be wrong with the SCART connector. When the OSSC is powered off and a SCART cable is connected to it the left channel is suppressed, and when the OSSC is powered on it produces loud static noise on the left channel.

[Das Man]

The IFU has RCA jacks for composite and stereo, so you can get stereo sound from there while getting RGB video from the PCE.

[Das Man]

@danmartin
I just started testing the OLED C8 which is the same as the E8 except for the bezel and speakers. These are my first impressions.

All 240p systems I tried (NESRGB, SNES, N64, PCE, PSX, Saturn) work with x3, x4, x5, but the HDMI signal was intermittently dropped in x5 on the SNES and even on x3 on the NESRGB–I suspect the HDMI cable is not good enough, so will retest with a better one in a couple of days.
240p/480i transitions in a game like Chrono Cross result in a one-second HDMI signal interruption, which cuts off the sound if outputting sound through the HDMI out. A workaround is to use the analog stereo output for sound.

The 480i systems I tried (PS2 and Wii hooked through RGB SCART) look best by far with x4 bob IMO. Didn’t try component since I prefer the look of 480i instead of 480p.

I used 100% scanlines since I’m used to my D20 BVM. After various adjustments on the picture mode of the OLED, the results in both 240p and 480i with the above outputs look remarkably close to the BVM (except in a huge size and with perfect geometry). I first tried using Game mode, but found that HDR Effect mode looks better and vibrant, more “CRT-like” to me, with the same lag as Game mode far as I can tell. Unfortunately only Game mode is available for 480i, but adjusting picture settings can make it look close enough to HDR Effect.

Of course all processing/effects in whatever mode used should be turned off (especially TruMotion).
EDIT: Upon further use with this TV I would say that TruMotion settings may be useful (the User setting). OLED is after all sample-and-hold, and coming from a CRT fast motion in games can get unbearably blurry. Using the de-blur (frame interpolation) setting is very effective but can introduce artifacts, which may be less noticeable without scanlines. But the most interesting option is the black frame insertion (called MotionPro in the LG panels). If you can bear a less bright picture and do not notice the flicker (I don’t), then it may be the best option for games with fast motion/scrolling.

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