[JonIIDX]

My monitor is perfect for OSSC as well (0 frames of input lag), but what it is not good for is refreshing an image after a signal drop. :< Every drop I lose about 3-4 seconds due to how slow my monitor refreshes a signal change, even though the actual drop is like a fraction of a second. :<

Sonic 1 USA/Europe: Can’t find it happen
Sonic 2 (World): Select 2-player mode doesn’t work at all, when it changes to extra stage it drops connection. This also happens after finishing the extra stage and before the stage results screen loads.

If you don’t have Sonic 2, then name a game and I will load it on my Mega Everdrive Pro and get back to you.

Virtually any time, I presume, the resolution changes in any game (basically every time a cutscene loads, a video sequence, or sometimes when full screen menus are loaded (any time the resolution changes, which happens a TON on Sega Genesis)), signal drops for a split second, which causes my monitor to refresh for 3-4 seconds. Jose’s monitor refreshes much faster than mine, so it doesn’t appear to be an issue for him…

It even happens when you load a game from the Mega Everdrive Pro out of the menu into virtually any game. Is there any way to stop this extremely brief desync? I have never experienced this on NES, SNES, or PSX with my OSSC. Even when loading from the menu of the FX PAK Pro, it doesn’t drop sync like this to cause my monitor to refresh. Something only I have experienced on the Mega Drive 2.

I wouldn’t mind if my monitor refreshed at the same rate that the OSSC does after the signal drop, but sadly it chains into a 3-4 second black screen on my monitor every time. :< It doesn’t break the game, it’s just annoying to miss a few seconds of the start of virtually every cut scene or battle in RPGs. Not to mention getting back into the map screen after a battle or something like that.

Thanks again for your ideas and support.

[JonIIDX]

Is there a chance that my SCART cable is causing this to happen? I’m starting to wonder if I got a dud from Insurrection Industries… It was one of their new batch for Mega Drive 2 and it came with a few bent pins that I had to straighten before I could connect it to the OSSC. I am also getting a lot of static/white noise in the audio, which I can’t remember if that is normal for MD2s… But it reminds me of the complaints people have with poorly shielded SCART cables. Insurrection Industries has a good reputation, but maybe their new batch has some duds…?

I’ll reach out to them if you think that may be a cause to the problem. Thanks.

[JonIIDX]

It happens on virtually every mega drive game, and some Mega Drive games bork out entirely (Bugs Bunny something or other, sorry I can load it up to confirm that one after work).

Direct examples:
Mamono Hunter Yohko: Every time it switches between gameplay and a movie scene (literally every time) (clearest example is after you beat a stage, but you can see this even on the title sequence and start button screen)

Vay for Sega CD: Every time it enters a movie scene or you go in or out of a battle. This one can also be checked even on the title screen when it starts loading the intro sequence. If you hit the start button to go back to the title screen it happens every time.

Like I said, it happens on virtually every game I have played, but those are the ones with the specific examples I can share at this time. I also already mentioned the cause: it happens virtually every time there is no video or audio feed (presumably when loading).

Thanks!

[JonIIDX]

Thanks. Sadly, yes, it still happens on default settings.

[JonIIDX]

By generic timings, do you mean the OSSC defaults and not firebrandx’s settings? Sorry, I’m not quite sure what that is referring to.

[JonIIDX]

Update:

The OEM Japanese Super Famicom AC adapter just came, and the noise problem has been completely rectified. The overall image looks much sharper too – I wonder if it has improved more than just the noise. Awesome!

So glad I don’t have to change anything with my console’s PCB… Thanks for the support and information.

[JonIIDX]

Thanks for the information, Harrumph! I appreciate it. Well, I am not nearly brave enough to try soldering anything to my SFC, so if the OEM AC Adapter doesn’t fix the issue then I will just live with it. It’s funny, I never noticed the noise bars before when I was using S-Video through my GV-USB-2, they just became noticeable when I upgraded to RGB. I guess the step up in quality is pretty huge, so it is natural that imperfections would become easier to notice. Thanks again for the help.

[JonIIDX]

So, how do you know mine is a multi-chip? I found a lot of information about SNES models, but couldn’t find much about SFC models.

Reverse LPF made a HUGE difference, by the way. Thanks for the suggestion! Sadly, I think I am noticing the noise bar even more… Currently I am using a third party AC adapter, and I have just purchased an official SFC AC adapter. It should be delivered in a couple days – I’ll give an update then.

[JonIIDX]

This might sound ridiculous, but I was getting a very similar problem when I first tried hooking up my Super Famicom to the OSSC. Given this was with a SFC, not an SNES… I imagine they behave similarly. I hadn’t used my console for quite some time, and since it takes the OSSC a while to sync, I wasn’t seeing the flicker from the power turning on and off, and I was just getting a black screen on the monitor. It was picking up the signal from the OSSC – just a black screen. I decided to pull out my Composite cables to make sure it wasn’t a problem with my SFC, and I was noticing the flicker from the power turning on and off… So I then thought that maybe my game just wasn’t seated properly, despite having just cleaned the connections. Sure enough, my console was just struggling getting a clean connection with the game pins, and after jiggling the cart and turning the console on and off a few times, the picture came back. Plugged it right into the OSSC after that with the Insurrection SCART cables, and bingo – it was working just fine.

This might be a long-shot, but is there any way you can verify that the game is seated properly? Most HDTVs still have composite inputs – that’s what I ended up using, and they are the most common connection that come with consoles. If not, try taking a game that doesn’t have any valuable save data on it, wiggling it around the connectors, and turning the power on and off a number of times. Wait a few seconds every time you turn the console off and on. There’s a chance that the SNES just isn’t getting a clean connection with the game. I mean, it’s worth a shot, unless you know for sure that isn’t the issue. Good luck!

[JonIIDX]

The model number is S22467202, SHVC-001.

Upon further investigation, it appears that there is a chance that what I am experiencing is not ghosting (like found in the SNES Mini), but color bleed (which I didn’t even think was possible on RGB). I am also guessing that my added vertically scrolling, top-down noise bar is from the PCB within my Super Famicom. Apparently some consoles are just noisier than others. I am supposing the only way to alleviate this issue would be to buy a different model. 🙁

If you know any specific information about the SHVC-001, it would be great if you could link me to it. I found a lot of resources documenting SNES consoles, but not much for Super Famicoms. Thanks.

Edit: I used Mystic Quest (USA version 1.0) to determine that I have the following:
CPU: Ver. 2
PPU1: Ver. 1
PPU2: Ver. 3

[JonIIDX]

Thanks for the input, and thank you for confirming that the OSSC currently cannot output audio on both 3.5mm RCA and HDMI simultaneously (at exactly the same time, not swapping outputs).

For documentation sake, the OSSC gives priority to the AV1 out if both an HDMI output and 3.5mm RCA output are plugged in at the same time. The OSSC audio output will automatically switch back to HDMI when you unplug the headphones or speakers.

I already have an AC adapter powered HDMI splitter that feeds one HDMI source to my capture card and the other to my TV. I didn’t want to add yet another splitter that requires another power supply, so was hoping there was an easy work-around by telling the OSSC to output two audio signals (one to HDMI and one to 3.5mm RCA). I have purchased a different monitor, and will update the sticky monitor compatibility thread when it arrives and I am able to test it myself. Thank you for your help!!

Edit: Haha, my PC monitor is displaying hyperlinks strangely as well. Oof, indeed. Hahaha.

[JonIIDX]

Thanks for the input. Hmmm, interesting.

Strangely enough, the OSSC reads my RGB modded AV Famicom even without a cartridge as long as the power switch is on (it shows a black screen, but it at least gets an input)… The SNES just kept syncing as if there was no signal to it at all, which is why I jumped to an incorrect conclusion. I will trust your assessment, even though I can’t understand why the Famicom would behave any differently from the Super Famicom. Regardless, glad it was just a problem with the connection of the game rather than something more financially debilitating.

[JonIIDX]

Hi everyone. This page hasn’t been updated for quite a long time, I was wondering if there has been any research about the OSSC’s compatibility (specifically RGB NES/SNES without the de-jitter mod), with more modern PC monitors.

I am currently trying to decide on a good 27 or 32 inch monitor that will work with SNES at Line 5x within 300 USD with very low input lag. My candidates are:

1) Dell D3218HN – 32″ – 278.99 USD – 8.5ms input lag @60hz (No speakers or headphone jack)
2) BenQ EL2870U – 27″ – 292.99 USD – 8.8ms input lag @60hz
3) BenQ EW3270U – 32″ – 399.99 USD – 9.4ms input lag @60hz (over budget, but is 4k with HDR)
4) ASUS VG279Q – 27″ – 253.17 USD – 9.4ms input lag @60hz

I have heard that the Dell S2719DGF 27″ monitor does not work well with the OSSC, so it makes me wonder if the Dell I mentioned above will work. To be honest, I really want to go with BenQ, as I hear many claim they make “lagless” monitors (which probably just means that they display frames in sync with a CRT at 60fps). Unfortunately, all of the BenQ listed here are only 24″, which would be too far from my ideal 32″ monitor.

If anyone here has any suggestions, I am happy to hear any ideas! Really banging my head up against a wall here, as most of the monitors on the official list are under 27″ or incredibly expensive… Thanks for any help!

[JonIIDX]

Thanks for your reply. Do you mean by moving the switch that you need like a needle or something to reach next to the 3.5mm output jack? I have tested with the switch in both directions, and neither of them will output audio simultaneously with the HDMI. I either get audio via the HDMI output, or audio via the 3.5mm headphone jack – Not both at the same time. However, moving the switch closest to the edge of the OSSC prevented me from getting any audio out of the 3.5mm jack entirely.

Sorry for the confusing/unclear question. Basically, I can’t get the OSSC to output both HDMI audio and headphone audio at the same time. If I have the headphones plugged in, the audio is no longer carried over the HDMI. The moment I unplug the headphones/speakers, the HDMI audio comes back.

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