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Alright, had the CD32 thing happen with PSP in the PSP 480p 2x mode as well, something about the resolution that the Crestron doesn’t like.

With the PSP I had to increase H/V active until the slice suddenly “healed” and then find a set of custom sampling setting specifically for the Crestron. So I don’t get full-screen PSP, but with the Crestrons zoom setting in combination with my custom settings, it’s pretty close. 🙂

I’ll play around with H and V-active with the CD32 and see what happens.

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I don’t think the number keys can be used for this, since most of them are tied up in input selecting duties.

What maybe could be done is that the >> << and >>| |<< keys could be mapped to increase settings in larger intervals. Like +\- 10 increments for >> << and +\- 100 increments for >>| |<<. Then, we also have the + and – keys unused as well.

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Exciting stuff, OSSC Pro is going to be the master of all trades!
Can’t wait to get mine. 🙂

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Cool, thanks for getting the hardware and looking into it, much appreciated!

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I had a similar problem installing a component out on my childhood SNES long ago, but not as bad as your image shows – it doesn’t have the vertical lines, only the garbled tiles.
The lines off the encoder chip kept falling off (’cause I’m not very skilled!) and I think I was a bit too long with the soldering iron and fried the encoder a bit.

Some games work okay, but others like Street Fighter 2 display these garbled tiles and the game locks up after I select a fighter.

Haven’t found a fix yet, and it seems to be getting worse the longer I leave it in the closet.

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Oh wow, sorry for the necro bump, but that’s golden information you’ve passed on Bucko. Thank you!

I thought I was personally cursed because 90% of the time I work on my SNESes I have to replace that damn fuse.

On one occasion, I went in ONLY to replace the fuse, and ended up having the replace the fuse again after I put the case back together. 🙂

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Do you have another display like a CRT (without Retrotink) to try, or an alternate method of getting the S-video to HDMI like the converters nmalinoski mentioned?

Sounds like you might be having a similar issue to what I have with my Sega 32X.

Basically, the Retrotink can’t handle colour signals over S-video that are too far out of spec. Other equipment such as the cheapo amazon converters grant a lot more leeway and would help in diagnosing the issue (they should work), but of course they are laggy as hell and stretch the image to 16:9, which is obviously why we want to use Retrotink instead. 🙂

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Thanks for the definitive explanation, when I was toying with the idea of amplifying colour I stumbled across some info detailing that the phase could be wrong. Very nearly ordered a Kramer VM-9YC so I could fiddle around with C-phase, but if I’m going to spend $80 (CAD) on something the Retrovision cables are a much safer bet.

I would have pulled the trigger already if they were in stock. 🙂

Will the HD Retrovision cable require R45 (composite) to be reconnected for sync, or any other reason?

edit: Sorry, I have a bad habit of answering my own questions! Why on earth can’t they use CSYNC on pin 5? Meh…
From HD Retrovision FAQ

Do your cables use CSYNC to avoid the noise from composite video?

The SNES/Genesis YPbPr cables do not use CSYNC. However, through the custom design of our cable and its circuitry inside we are able to extract sync from composite video without introducing noise. The two main reasons for this are (1) we are not driving a full video load, and (2) composite video is only traveling over a short distance before being terminated.

So I need pin 4 on the multi-av out to work at least in some capacity. R45 on the 32X schematic is not directly in the path of pin 4, but completes a little circuit betweeen YOUT and YIN back into the video encoder. Obviously there is already good sync coming out of that pin 6 to R45, so I would suppose the video encoder will want it back to complete the composite signal…unless VOUT already gets sync through the encoder by some other internal routing (doubtful).

I guess I’ll pre-order the cables and find out this summer!

edit 2: Yes, the encoder does require that circuit for a complete composite signal, it goes back in for Y/C mix.

However, do the retrovision cables really require the composite colour information too? Seems I could just short pin 6 directly to CE12, and disconnect pin 20 by a switch or by simply lifting the pin. I would imagine there is the potential for less interference from the ultimately unused colour signal if it’s not passed on to the HD cable. Or I can reconnect R45 and nerf the colour circuit by getting rid of C76 (easier and better method).
Am I crazy?

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Exact same output, top into Kramer directly, bottom to Retrotink.

edit: images removed

Okay, turns out there was a bootleg crossed S-video cable I was using in the chain, this is now gone, so I now have a sharp image with the colour shifts.

Edit 2: This is where I’m at now. Re-built the circuit a bit nicer than before, no resistor on Chroma and now I can reliably get colour-shifted video thru the ‘tink. Here’s the shift…

SMPTE test colours in 240p test suite. S-video fed through the PVM first, then out to the video chain. I put back the Joytech switch back in the S-video path because the cheap manual switch was dumping S-video signal out of all the empty composite holes – as long as the Joytech only has S-video cords and audio plugged in it actually does work.

PVM displays correctly, then the retrotink has a spasm with it. Tried changing the Kramer input from RGB to YUV but that is not the fix either.

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Been messing around a bit with the breadboard, slapping an 82ohm or 120ohm resistor (don’t have a 75) on the chroma out from pin 3 gets me colour – but it is way off on the retrotink, the Sega logo is red, if I adjust the hue control on the Kramer is MAX, the colour is almost correct, maybe just a little washed out from the slightly high resistance? However, can’t blame Kramer, I get the same result plugging in the Retrotink to the TV directly.

Colour into the PVM is perfect under the same conditions and goes to black/white when chroma is disconnected.

R45 is gone, but I never put in the switch. S-video for life. 🙂

To be extra sure the PVM wasn’t seeing colour information from composite over luma, I disconnected the chroma line, and fed the s-video out from the console into an s-video-RCA adapter into the PVM on the composite input. Perfect black and white on the shared s-video/composite input 1, nothing except some occasional flickery lines on input 2, which is composite only.

Something odd perhaps: So I can now get horrible colour on Retrotink on the Y/C input, but if I cycle through all the inputs back to Y/C, colour is lost again until I restart the console.

edit: Actually the colour shift is not consistent, every time I power on the Genesis a new shift appears. There are 3 far, one where I set hue to 32, another where hue is 80, and the aforementioned one where the max value is needed. Gotta get this chroma signal in spec I think.

edit 2: Another thing is note is that the picture from the retrotink LOOKS like composite with lots of colour bleed and interference when I do this, while the same output directly into the Kramer is super sharp. Hmm.

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