CastingDreams
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Same here. Fortunately Sony TVs are good at other things!
Oh! I got confused there, I thought GCHD and OBS were supposed to be settings for the Cam Link. That’ll teach me to browse the forum while I’m sleep deprived 😛 OBS actually has an interesting page on what these settings do. Since I use both a Windows 10 PC and a MacBook Pro (for “in the field” captures) with this device, “Auto” seems to be the best for me. Some initial weirdness might well be explained by the fact that I am supposed to start up GCHD, leave it running for 10 seconds, then shut it down again to update the Transfer Mode setting.
Note I only briefly tried out OBS, but it didn’t seem to be able to do anything that GCHD doesn’t already. Other than for stability, is there a reason to use it?
Thanks for your help guys. I was also surprised that my 3x captures were output as 1440×1440. For the record, the 4x ended up being 1440×960 pixels which is more along the lines of what I expected. I guess the line multipliers are not really meant for interlaced resolutions? When I tested with a 240p game (Ico) the resulting resolutions were more predictable.
The camlink has a hidden advanced options mode for firmware update and data transfer mode.
https://help.elgato.com/customer/portal/articles/1385969-firmware-updates-and-elgato-game-capture-hd
I did not know this, thanks! Mine only offers Bulk and Isochronous though…
If lack of access to or knowledge of the manual is or is part of the issue, then that’s something that can and should be addressed.
Good point. I was just making a suggestion – I guess to me the -aud naming feels like something that is less than ideal, for purely historical reasons…
By the way, there is some more info on firmware changes at the bottom of Junker HQ:
“Replace Nios2 with a more featured core (e.g. Pulpino) to allow using memory resources more efficiently”
Seems like pretty much every other firmware improvement depends on that.
On the other hand, since the next step in the evolution of the OSSC is going to be a different piece of hardware altogether, how much sense does it make to put time and effort into changing things up for the current, soon-to-be-deprecated generation of OSSC hardware? (Plus, the manual is quite clear about which firmware you need for which hardware.)
What’s obvious to an experienced user like yourself is not necessarily obvious to someone new to the field…
Instead of reflexively disagreeing with my suggestion, try and put yourself in their shoes, or just imagine you’re downloading firmware for a new device?
Obviously the choice is not mine, and it’s not a particularly big deal either – but I think bringing up “time and effort” is a little exaggerated, we are just talking about a simple rename here.On the other hand, I had no idea a new generation of OSSCs was about to be released? Last I read, Markus was working on refactoring the OSSC’s firmware.
Marqs, would you consider changing the naming of the firmware files? I’ve seen several instances of the -aud ending throwing people off. It confused me too! Now that the OSSC 1.6 is what most users (especially new users) have, the firmware with audio is the most appropriate one to use. And the simplest firmware name should always be the default one! So I propose changing:
ossc_0.81-aud.bin -> ossc_0.81.bin
ossc_0.81.bin -> ossc_0.81-noaud.binI can almost guarantee you that these “no sound after flashing firmware” problems will disappear 🙂
First, there is a Feature Requests forum specifically for requests/wishlist items like this.
Second, there is already a thread requesting usage of the SD card for storage of profiles.
Yes, I know this. But since profiles are now implemented I thought this was no longer relevant…
And, lastly, the OSSC currently only uses the SD card for firmware updates. Once the firmware is updated, the SD card is no longer utilized, and profiles are stored on the OSSC itself (The FPGA has a little bit of storage, I think?), so no profiles are ever saved back to the SD card.
Ah, I see. I assumed OSSC used the SD card for profiles, especially since marqs mentioned how tight the space on the device was.
Any advice for the owner of a Sony KDL-55W800B? Like dadjumper and MiserablePixels I’ve been unable to get 3x and above to work, I keep getting a message about an invalid signal (sound still plays though). I’ve tried with my PS2 running in 240p, 480p and 480i. In Sampling Options, I’ve increased V.Active to 256 as per the instructions, but even when V.Backporch is 1 I don’t get a picture. I’ve tried changing the TX mode to DVI. I’ve set my TV to “Graphics” mode and Wide Mode to “Full”, as per this section of the manual on PC input signals:
- 640 x 480, 31.5 kHz/60 Hz
- 800 x 600, 37.9 kHz/60 Hz
- 1024 x 768, 48.4 kHz/60 Hz
- 1280 x 768, 47.4 kHz/60 Hz and 47.8 kHz/60 Hz
- 1360 x 768, 47.7 kHz/60 Hz
- 1280 x 1024, 64.0 kHz/60 Hz (Full HD model only)
- 1920 x 1080, 67.5 kHz/60 Hz (Full HD model only)*
* The 1080p timing, when applied to the HDMI input, will be treated as a video timing and not a PC timing. This will affect the [Preferences] and [Picture & Display] settings. To view PC content, set [Scene Select] to [Graphics], [Wide Mode] to [Full], and [Display Area] to [Full Pixel]. ([Display Area] is configurable only when [Auto Display Area] is set to [Off].)
Is there anything obvious that I might be missing? Thanks.
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