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“Profile number entry via remote”

What does this exactly mean?

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Someone mentioned this in another post too and I’m totally voting for this option.</p>

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Additional menu colors would be definitely nice. I find it very hard to distinguish the yellow highlight color among the white text.</p>

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Any response to this or am I just missing something?

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I sent a message using the contact form last week but I haven’t got a reply yet. I also checked the spam. I’ll try to contact you again.

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SD card with v0.90 seems to work fine in Win10.

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Okay, I recommend software called Disk Drill. It’s free and you can actually extract the file with it. I don’t know if it has any file size limits but I was successful with 1mb sized file.

– Find the SD card with the software
– click the three dots from the right and choose “Search for lost data”
– When OSSCPROF.BIN is found you can stop the scan
– Extract the file by right clicking the file and choose “Recover”

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The problem is that the full version fro both of those data recovery softwares cost over $100. If the settings file gets over 750kb you can’t even use the free version to export the file.

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I have similar issues with Street Fighter 2 Turbo (PAL), in character screen and in-game. OSSC is dropping the signal constantly.

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It would be neat to rename the profiles also.

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I don’t know how to solve the problem but here is something I experienced so far. The interlaced 576 picture from PS2 is a bit shaky when captured via Elgato Cam Link. On my Samsung 720p TV the shakyness is unnoticeable. When using Passthrough mode the content captured by Elgato is unwatchable because it just shakes too much. On 2x (bob) I can get rid most of the shakyness. The frames of the picture will still shake but I can get rid of it just cropping them a bit. After this I can still notice a bit of shaking on some texts and lines but isn’t that noticable and I’m OK with the results. I tried all the deinterlace methods in OBS Studio and I found that Blend 2x works best for me. I’m still not using it because it makes some ghosting.

If you set your FPS to 25 (576) or 30 (480) the shakyness will disappear but it’s for you to decide if it’s really worth it. I don’t know if it’s possible to get nice and smooth interlaced image with OSSC.

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I used the AverMedia Live Gamer Extreme (GC550), and for all the consoles I had, only Line2x was supported, which was good, but highly a shame as I wanted to record my favorite machines on at least a 720p resolution.

I now use an Elgato Cam Link, as advised by Vince, and it does work extremely well as I can now record on line3x and onward (even 5x, which is absolutely surprising for such a small device, ahah)

However, I have a major problem, when it comes to recording the SNES, and Nintendo 64 on Line3x/Line4x : when I try to do so, it has major & quick screen distorsions, and I don’t know how to fix them. Of course, I use the official SCART cable from the SNES. However, on Line2X, no problem.

In case of: My SNES is a PAL which has a SuperCIC installed, and my N64 is a NUS-FRA (thus, RGB modified).

Video showcasing the problem: https://twitter.com/Ch0wW7/status/943569166073819136

I recently bought Elgato Cam Link and had the same problem. After trying tweaking the settings I found a solution. Set “Allow TVP HPLL2x” On, and if the picture still jitters, set v.synclen to 7 and v.backporch to 10. This is for 3x mode.

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Well, I actually got it work while I spent more time tweaking the advanced timings. Now there’s no screen cut out and it also works with Elgato HD. If anyone else is having this problem with their TV, here are my settings for my Samsung TV PS43F4505:

H.backporch 59
H.active 720
v.synclen 5
V.backporch 19
V.active 240
H.samplerate 920
H.synclen 97

EDIT: Here’s some video footage just for fun https://www.dropbox.com/s/dd7794avggpw0s0/contra.flv?dl=0
download it for 60fps playback.

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OSSC is not losing the sync, in fact it’s only the TV. If my memory serves me right, I think I purchased the cable from Consolegoods.co.uk. I can’t actually say for sure if it was a one with CSYNC or not. the SFC is not a 1-CHIP model. Should I try a CSYNC cable from retrogamingcables or are there some other tips for adjusting the settings on OSSC? For clarification, this problem only persists with 2x mode.

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I have a tip that might help. I had some sync issues with my Super Famicom. It kept losing sync from time to time. I tried to find some tips from the forums and the wiki and it turned out that raising the “Analog sync vth” value found under “Sync opt.” worked out for me. I set it to 169 mV and the sync stayed stable.

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