[Steo]

Is it a PAL or NTSC console? It’s never as easy when it comes to 50Hz consoles.

[Steo]

You should try the PAL 4x 1080p tweak if you’re using PAL, that way you’re not really losing anything from the image other than 18 lines (which are usually blank on PAL anyway). I noted it here some time ago. It might be useful for many PAL systems which output 288p.

If you use 1080p in 5x for PAL, you lose about 72 lines (288 x 5 = 1440 – 1080 = 360 / 5 = 72), which is a lot worse than only 18 (288 x 4 = 1152, though we reduce this to 270 which equals 1080 so it will scale nicely. Since 1080 / 4 = 270, and the full image should be 288, 288 – 270 = 18). This is much better for PAL, assuming your TV can force 4:3. If not, Harrumph found a tweak for this method to make it output 1440×1080 instead of 1920×1080, though your mileage may vary with this one as not all displays will accept it.

[Steo]

I haven’t been here in some time, but this update for the OSD is actually really nice!

[Steo]

I read about this and it sounds promising. I like the idea of it being able to use a 1080p window to eliminate any issues and actually have perfect integer scaling too, with the only thing being the borders, which I think would be worth it when it comes to a 1080p set.

Another thing is capture cards, many of them refuse to work, but this could really make things much easier for people who like to capture video.

I’m pretty happy with the current model, it works really well on my B8, but I’d consider buying the Pro if it ends up having more features that would benefit me over the current one.

[Steo]

Sorry for the late reply, I hadn’t seen this. Basically they’re recommending last years model because you’ll get a better price on them.

Mine’s a 55 inch OLED55B8PUA.

[Steo]

I got the B8 last year and I’d say OLED hands down. The OLED has spoiled me so much that it made me hate the majority of LCD screens I’ve looked at after using it. The perfect black levels is one of my favourite things about the TV.

As for burn in, I can vouch that people definitely blow this out of proportion. I have played a lot of retro games on the set and haven’t even seen any retention, let alone burn in. I actually have a habit of leaving the same TV station on a lot (though I wouldn’t recommend doing so just in case), and the watermark hasn’t burned in even slightly either. I feel like as long as you leave these settings under OLED Panel Settings:

Pixel Refresher – On
Screen Shift – On
Logo Luminance Adjustment – Low

You will have very minimal chance of actually getting burn in. I feel like the only way you’d even have a chance of getting it, is if you set OLED Light to 100 all the time, then either play the same game retro game with a HUD every day for at least a year, or else just leave the same TV channel on constantly day in day out, which has an overlay, such as a news channel etc.

Even if you leave the same image on the TV for too long, it automatically dims, similar to a screen saver on an Xbox.

[Steo]

Anyone else twho has updated to FW0.83 having problems with ps2 progressive signals? (I am using RGB scart connection)

I just tried mine there and it’s working fine. My PS2 is set to RGB, so once the signal switches to progressive, I press 4 on the remote (RGsB).

[Steo]

For some reason after updating the firmware, if I use that generic 4:3 tweak for PAL where I sat V Active to 270, there’s big black borders above and below the image now. It’s not an issue for me since I can just use optimal modes, but is there something different about this firmware that it’s doing this? 3x and 4x both have the borders on generic 4:3, and they’re bigger on 3x.

[Steo]

H Samplerate always changes the picture width horizontally. If you were to reduce H Active alone then the picture would be stretched offscreen basically.

That’s the only problem with the 1080p 4x setting is that the TV needs to be able to force 4:3. If it can’t then the window is stretched to 16:9. Whatever 3x does it seems to always have a 4:3 window vs other modes.

[Steo]

I see, I had honestly never noticed it before and when I first did I suspected it was because that cable was cheap. I noticed the ghosting is still there even on RF so it’s definitely the console. I just wonder if it’s worth my while or if I’d be better off getting a Super NT at some stage of it bothers me that much.

[Steo]

I have the same issue with my Toro but iirc the ratio is corrected when using 640×480 sampling or else just increasing H Samplerate until the screen is wide enough. Seems to work on my OLED B8.

[Steo]

It’s one from Retro Gaming Cables. If I knew it was related to needing the resistors I’d just add them myself since I plan to get a GCHD for the GameCube anyway.

[Steo]

Page 1 of this thread has some useful info, but as for custom tweaking, it seems to be a little complicated regarding what a TV will accept. Sometimes it can be easier to use a computer monitor that accepts anything for testing, then try it on the TV when the monitor is reporting the desired resolution.

H Active will affect the horizontal resolution, V Active will affect the vertical one, but H. Samplerate can affect both the width of the picture and the resolution. Basically if you have V Active 240 and you’re using Line3x, you’ll be outputting 720p vertically, it’s usually a combination of messing with the H Active and H Samplerate on fussy TV’s.

A lot of TV’s have PC modes, so increasing V Active to 256 makes the window be 768p, and most TV’s will accept 1024×768, 1280×768, 1360×768 or 1366×768. The problem is that it heavily relies on getting the right combination of H Active and H Samplerate as to whether the TV will display an image. The biggest issue however is that most TV’s only use these PC modes at 60Hz.

There are 2 PAL tweaks on the first page and the one I used for 4x is great if your TV accepts it, but the TV also has to be able to force 4:3 since it shows it as a 16:9 window. There is a 1440×1080 setting that you could try, but a lot of TV’s are too fussy to accept that. My Panasonic was so fussy and I’m surprised you even got a picture in 3x with V Active set to 240.

This is what I had figured out while messing with the Panasonic before regarding NTSC here.

[Steo]

That’s actually pretty interesting. I had a Panasonic EX700 for a while and I could never get it to work in 3x unless I used V Active 256 then tweaked the other settings to make it look like 1024×768, 1280×768, 1360×768 or 1366×768. My mother has the TV now since I got my LG B7 OLED, but I’ll try test the OSSC on it again with those settings just to see if it does work on other Panasonic models.

[Steo]

Interesting that it seems to be the OLED sets it’s happening on. Although it will be hard to tell from an image, here’s an example of what mine is doing from the menu on Splinter Cell. You can see that while it’s supposed to be a checkerboard like type of pattern, it alternates between that pattern and horizontal lines.

You can even see it on the font in “Create” over the letters where the lines are just horizontal. It’s even more noticeable here if you click “load full resolution”.

[Author]

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