[Fnnrqwin]

The current OSSC supports the NES just fine, but it needs to be modified to output RGB.

[Fnnrqwin]

Yeah, when it comes to the N64 I feel it’s useful to have a 320×240 profile and a generic 4:3 profile. With the PS1 I just stick with generic 4:3. I’m not sure if it would be possible for the Pro to detect these changes, and wouldn’t be surprised if it is impossible.

[Fnnrqwin]

Go to the audio options in the settings menu and adjust Pre-ADC gain. Some consoles are just much louder than others.

[Fnnrqwin]

This is just how your C8 is processing the difference between 1200 versus 1080. It probably is treating your settings differently for different resolutions. I know on my B6 on the same input using the same profile if my image switches from 1080p to 1200p it doesn’t have the same Color, Tint, Sharpness, Brightness, Contrast, OLED Light, Gamma, etc. It also reverts the zoom setting. Make sure it’s doing Just Scan and Original aspect ratio, and I’d write down your settings for a 1080p image and make sure the 1200p is using the same settings.

[Fnnrqwin]

I also use an iScan Duo. While I get an image with 240 x4, it will blank out after some time. These are the only settings that stay consistent:

240p x3
480i x2
480p x2

You’ll want to hunt down the latest firmware too.

Also, if you’re using a NES or SNES, set those output modes to DVI and route the audio out through the 3.5 mm jack to the DVDO. If you don’t you’ll get weird glitches.

[Fnnrqwin]

The bob modes from the OSSC have crazy judder, that’s just how they look. I’m actually concerned there isn’t any judder on your TV. It must be processing the image something fierce.

[Fnnrqwin]

All stock power supplies. NTSC only.

[Fnnrqwin]

I actually have this same thing happening on all my systems, although it’s much more noticeable on 240p systems. I’ve used two OSSCs, an official pre-HDMI one and a knockoff HDMI one. Both have the same issue. Used the power supplies that came with each and swapped them too. I’ve bypassed my SCART switch and I got the same issue, so that’s not the part of the chain. Running everything through power conditioners.

Systems tested:
– NES
– SNES
– N64
– Gamecube
– Wii
– PS1
– PS2
– Genesis
– Dreamcast

I don’t want to start blaming the design of the OSSC because I haven’t heard of this being a widespread issue, it’s just weird I’d have it with two different models. Any ideas?

[Fnnrqwin]

I get this exact same thing. Pretty sure it’s a power issue.

[Fnnrqwin]

Before doing any tweaking I would double-check compatibility by applying the multiplication factors and actually playing the games for like 15 minutes at a time. You might encounter weird blanking or glitches. That will help you determine the things that might need changing. That way you don’t waste your time dialing in a perfect image only to not be able to enjoy it.

[Fnnrqwin]

Yes, download the Firebrand profiles. That will at least get you most of the way there. Also, you’ll want to test out on a per-console basis how your TV supports the different line multiplication modes.

Also, scanlines! The difference in quality there will probably seem large compared to the straight image from a cheap HDMI converter.

[Fnnrqwin]

If you have an Everdrive for the N64 you can load your own background images and use those to fine-tune.

You can create images similar to what you’d find in the 240p test suite, but be aware that you will really only be able to see the patterns clearly on the periphery of the menu borders.

[Fnnrqwin]

I get locked out frequently too. I’ll try to take a screenshot next time it happens. The wording makes it seem like an admin needs to reauthenticate something.

[Fnnrqwin]

Do you have Black-Frame Insertion set to on on the B8?

[Fnnrqwin]

This is the Automatic Brightness Limiter (ABL) setting on your LG B8. All OLEDs have this “feature.” It can be disabled in the Service Menu, but doing so voids your warranty and could (will) result in burn-in happening sooner.

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