BuckoA51
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Ocarina of Time was 240p not 480i. Only a handful of N64 games were 480i usually only on title screens.
Most likely your PC is doing some scaling of its own, probably non integer, to get the N64 game to 720p. OSSC can’t correct for this.
November 5, 2026 at 9:51 AM in reply to: GameScare switch adds apparent WiFi noise in the RGB output #71170We have confirmed a fault with a number of SCART switches from the batch dated 8/26. If your switch has the following sticker on the underside and it is exhibiting these symptoms, please get in touch with us.

The cause of this fault is so far undetermined. All other switches from other batches are unaffected.
What did you do to fix it?
Framelock off should not be necessary, the signal is 60hz exactly. Can you change the Steam Deck to 720p output maybe? Assuming your aim is to play indie titles on the CRT to get a good image you will need mostly 720p (titles like e.g Freedom Planet to do a 3x drop) and 1080p (e.g UFO 50 to do a 4 x drop).
Are you sure you’re outputting a resolution your CRT can support?
October 31, 2026 at 1:10 PM in reply to: Struggling to get OSSC Pro to display video over component – Downscaling #71095Again I find it extremely unlikely that the component cables are to blame.
October 31, 2026 at 10:15 AM in reply to: Struggling to get OSSC Pro to display video over component – Downscaling #71093The switches on the av input output adapter only affect SCART, so it won’t be anything to do with them.
If the Extra AV out is functioning then it is tight enough in the socket. The screws are really to prevent it coming undone by accident while in use (e.g if you moved a cable or something). The screw itself is called a 4 – 40 UNC hex socket.
Before worrying about scaler/line multiplier modes I would simply try to get the test patterns working. If they won’t display, then you have basically no chance at all of displaying anything else.
Power on OSSC Pro and hit the left button on the remote, that should take you to “TP 480i” which should display on all NTSC consumer televisions.
I doubt that it is your component cable either. Cheap cables will still give a correct image just are potentially more prone to interference. It’s not like SCART with all sorts of 1980s smart home tech in there that can cause issues, component doesn’t have that it’s just the signal from A to B.
October 29, 2026 at 10:20 AM in reply to: Struggling to get OSSC Pro to display video over component – Downscaling #71068Be sure to set Expansion opt->Output mode->YPbPr
Make sure you’re not outputting in a resolution or test pattern that your TV can’t support.
October 23, 2026 at 10:15 AM in reply to: GameScare switch adds apparent WiFi noise in the RGB output #71007Did you already e-mail in about this issue? The GamesCare switches have had WiFi for some time, so I’d have expected this to have been more widely noticed if its not an isolated issue.
October 7, 2026 at 1:30 PM in reply to: Sony PSX DVR + OSSC: no picture in XMB, sync changes from 525i to 540i #70887Does sound like the TVs not tolerating it, but I wonder why the shift to 16.18kHz when the XMB is opened?
I don’t suppose you have a SCART cable you could try instead, or a d-terminal to VGA?
October 7, 2026 at 1:27 PM in reply to: Extra AV Out CVBS/Composite output is not working, but S-video and RGB does #70886Even with the card set to the wrong mode you should still get some picture at 240p/480i it just may be too bright or dark, you’re not even seeing the test card pattern?
Don’t expect great results converting 60hz to 66.7hz though, scrolling will not be smooth and there will be at least 1 frame of input latency.
Yes its part of the EuroSCART specification and is required on most TVs sold in Europe. That adapter might work in your case then.
You don’t need a sync combiner btw (though having one should not matter) for the extra AV out as you can toggle composite or separate sync output from the menus on the OSSC Pro.
Not something I’ve come across, have you noticed it across multiple displays?
I don’t see anything on the product page that says that device provides RGB blanking / activation voltage that classic CRTs usually need so, I’m afraid it might not work for that purpose.
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