You can already try connecting composite to Y-channel of component input to identify whether your TV or the expansion is broken.
Are you sure Steam Deck is not trying to output VRR or something else special? With stable source the red LED should stay unlit. It’s also worth trying out anouther HDMI cable.
Since you seem to have Extra AV board with composite output, you can also try connecting that to composite and component (Y/green) inputs of the TV using your existing RCA cable. Just remember to switch into matching output mode in Extra AV out opt under Expansion menu and select 480i/576i test pattern mode.
LPF not being available on AV3 is a HW limitation. Mode switching itself should be more reliable with 1.xx firmware.
What resolution Steam Deck tries to output? Does the Pro front screen just indicate NO SYNC, or oscillate between modes with red LED on?
All of the items listed above should be part of the profile structure. Let me know specifically which settings are not saved so I can look into it.
The commands are listed here. It’s standard USB Blaster pinout / protocol where you don’t need to set baud rate. There are also developments for USB CDC-ACM dongles/boards which will be part of next fw
There’s nothing visibly wrong so perhaps the chip / trace is broken and you have to request a replacement board.
The options under “Settings” menu are saved separately into a common slot/file when any profile is saved. During power-up settings from internal flash are always loaded even if you have SD inserted with settings.bin. You thus need to save any profile into internal flash to get them stored.
If the LED doesn’t blink when you press a key of previously working remote (in case of L336, make sure it’s on “TV” preset), I’d suggest resoldering the IR diode.
Sounds like the board might have missing/misplaced resistors R17 or R18, or defective U4 IC. A picture from the top would give more insight.
I’d assume only hsync frequency of M1212 is fixed/restricted, thus you could try just increasing total number of lines output instead of using the specced refresh rate. 480p with 584 lines instead of 525 should result to 35kHz scan rate. If that works, you could operate A-LM or Scaler (w/ framelock) for best gaming experience although former might have some cropping/overscan.
It supports it if you disable framelock and set adv disp timings accordingly. Depending on the adapter, you may not need a dedidated sync combiner since latest DExx-vd_isl fw supports CSYNC over HDMI.
If OLED display and LED turn off, then the update has completed but something goes wrong on the new fw initialization. Has that ever happened after switching to standby mode? It’s hard to nail down the issue if it occurs on one particular unit.
This would be more feasible if VGA DDC and SCART blanking voltages were connected and could be used as indicators. I don’t think the ADC chip allows detecting sync from inactive inputs and sync detection of the chip is not very robust either.
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